ken and his catch
McKinley in all of its glory
VIEW FROM THE TRAIN
Tuesday, July 27, 2004
We spent the July 18th weekend on the Kenai River where the salmon were running but his nibbs was unsuccessful in his bid to round out the larder with a fresh salmon catch. Ken has been having sporadic problems with his back. I am convinced that the fishing is not helping but he says I am wrong. Nevertheless, I feel confident that standing for long periods and casting jerks are not in his best interest.
Monday we drove to Whittier, a nondescript coastal village that I was rather "put upon" to find interesting. There is a 2 ½ mile tunnel leading into town and once there not much exists except a few rag tag shops, 3/4 of which are for sale and the remaining look depressed. There is no community as such, just two large buildings of condominium and/or apartment type construction and that about sizes it up as a town. However, they are trying to build it up and are marketing to cruise ships as an alternate port to Seward for the Denali train trip. I will say that there is a gorgeous glacier just across the bay which does add color and character to a village that was, in my opinion, otherwise lonely and forlorn. Ken’s assessment was quiet and peaceful.
Tuesday we returned to Portage for a trip on the glacier lake to Portage Glacier. We were delighted to experience a large "calving" of the glacier (ice breaking away from the main glacier forming what would be icebergs at sea). The wake that followed the "calving" rocked the boast enough to validate the size of the breaking ice. After our visit to Portage Glacier, we stopped off at a wild animal park to get some close up pictures of the wild animals that we have thus far seen at only a distance. We decided not to stop in Anchorage, preferring to overnight in Palmer but the RV Park there had no vacancy. We decided to go on and luckily found a very nice RV Park on a river outside of the small town of Houston, where Ken could also fish. We ended up spending two nights there while Ken fished and rested the recurring twinge in his back.
Thursday we did a short side trip off the "beaten path" to a small town called Talkeetna, approximately 100 miles outside of Denali. Talkeetna is on the Alaskan Railroad and, as you approach the town, Mount McKinley (Denali) is sometimes visible but we were not treated to that view. Several air taxi services provide scenic trips for close up views of the mountain from the air as well as landings on the glacier, weather permitting. We had thought we might do the plane trip but the weather continued to be inclement with intermittent rain showers and clouds hanging over the mountain making any viewing of the mountain unlikely. We decided not to do the plane trip and, instead, took a 124 mile round trip train ride to Hurricane, a trip promoted as the last "whistle stop" railroad in America. It was an extraordinary step back in time. On the way up, we dropped people off to go to their wilderness cabins. One family operate a gold mine in the wilderness, another man and his dog were going to their cabin for a brief "getaway" from business (we were told he owns a chain of motels in Alaska). There were those who looked like "mountain people" and those who seemed to be regular folks who simply choose to make their home on the "wild side". They appeared to be people that my view of "forlorn and lonely" might mean "peace and quiet". The run to Hurricane is provided by the Alaskan Railway as a service to the locals and offered to the tourist as a scenic adventure. There was no "hipe", no "canned speech", just a trip to the hills on a relatively modern train for another view of the Alaskan lifestyle.
We struck up a conversation with a lady from the Northern Indiana/Chicago area who came to Alaska with her husband in 1959, a real pioneer. They homesteaded in Trapper Creek an area renown for its views of Mt. McKinley, which she said are best during the winter months. She said that she adopted Alaska as her home and " has never looked back". We were amused with a story that she related about a new group of homesteaders to Alaska who brought with them the work ethic of the lower 48. They started work on constructing their cabins at 8 in the morning, a break at 10, lunch at 12, a break at 2 and ending their day at 4. She said that the short Alaskan summer with its long days are a call to action and always followed by long Alaskan nights. As the nights begin to cool and the days grew shorter, the group got the message. Many ended up sharing a cabin with others and the following summer, they adjusted their work ethic to comply with the standards of the Alaskan sun. One lesson I have taken from our visit here. The summers are short, the tourist season brief and for those who live here, the labor of four months must provide for 12.
On the way back, the train proved its mettle as a whistle stop as it stopped to pick up people going into town, some for supplies, others for business and others simply returning to their regular pursuits after a brief interlude in the back country. In addition to our stops for passengers, we enjoyed a brief stop along the river where King Salmon were spawning and an unscheduled stop for a young bear crossing the tracks in front of us. Unfortunately, we were not in "camera view" and missed all but its quick descent into the brush. All in all not a bad days journey.
Saturday we drove into Denali. Although there was no rain, it was cloudy and as we entered Denali, clouds obscured any view of Mt McKinley . We registered at the RV Park, picked up our passes for the early morning Tundra tour, attended a sled dog demonstration, watched rafters preparing to cast off for their down river rafting experience and did a drive through the park. We had been told by all who have been to Denali that statistically speaking only 1/3 of the approximately 350,000 annual visitors to Denali are able to view the mountain. Only a few of the people with whom we had spoken in the days leading to our Denali visit reported anything more than a brief glimpse of the mountain and, as a result of the fires in the Fairbanks area, smoke had been a further detraction.
We enjoyed a demonstration of the "working dogs" of Denali. Denali is the only national park patrolled in winter by dog sled. The patrol extends to Wonder Lake and Kantishna and involves a three month round trip of approximately 180 miles. We were surprised to learn that Denali does not receive the heavy snows that we had expected and rainfall much less intense that we expected. However, the reduction in moisture does not translate to a reduction in temperate.
The weather forecast was for clouds on Sunday and rain on Monday. As we departed the coach to meet our 745A bus Sunday morning, the day seemed bright and clouds scarce though the air was cold. As our bus proceeded outside the forest area of the visitors center, we gained a better view of the beautiful blue sky which promised a beautiful day for viewing the animals. Our tour guide raised our hopes by urging us to keep our fingers crossed and just maybe, the Mountain would reveal itself. Our naturalist tour bus driver briefed us on the history of the park, the animals in the park and prepared us for what he hoped we would see on our trip, the big five, bears, caribou, dall sheep, moose and wolves.
As we entered our first area for viewing the mountain from the park road, we were treated to a beautiful view of the mountain in all of its majesty. At the urging of our driver, everyone rushed to get pictures. Our driver cautioned that it is rare to see the mountain at all and advised us that it can disappear into the clouds quickly and often does by the time another viewing site is reached. We rode along the road enjoying an up close and personal viewing of caribou, dall sheep (not so close), a grizzly bear sow and two cubs and scenery that is spectacular as we traveled a tundra of varied distinction. The mountain remained visible during the whole day’s excursion and we were, indeed, treated to a beautiful day in Denali. We did not see any moose or wolves but the bears and caribou were plentiful. Near the end of our day, a family of willow ptarmigam (Alaska’s State bird) crossed the road in front of the bus as if posing for our pictures. We realize that we were permitted to enjoy a rare day in the last great wilderness and it was a "a many splendored thing".
Monday we drove to Whittier, a nondescript coastal village that I was rather "put upon" to find interesting. There is a 2 ½ mile tunnel leading into town and once there not much exists except a few rag tag shops, 3/4 of which are for sale and the remaining look depressed. There is no community as such, just two large buildings of condominium and/or apartment type construction and that about sizes it up as a town. However, they are trying to build it up and are marketing to cruise ships as an alternate port to Seward for the Denali train trip. I will say that there is a gorgeous glacier just across the bay which does add color and character to a village that was, in my opinion, otherwise lonely and forlorn. Ken’s assessment was quiet and peaceful.
Tuesday we returned to Portage for a trip on the glacier lake to Portage Glacier. We were delighted to experience a large "calving" of the glacier (ice breaking away from the main glacier forming what would be icebergs at sea). The wake that followed the "calving" rocked the boast enough to validate the size of the breaking ice. After our visit to Portage Glacier, we stopped off at a wild animal park to get some close up pictures of the wild animals that we have thus far seen at only a distance. We decided not to stop in Anchorage, preferring to overnight in Palmer but the RV Park there had no vacancy. We decided to go on and luckily found a very nice RV Park on a river outside of the small town of Houston, where Ken could also fish. We ended up spending two nights there while Ken fished and rested the recurring twinge in his back.
Thursday we did a short side trip off the "beaten path" to a small town called Talkeetna, approximately 100 miles outside of Denali. Talkeetna is on the Alaskan Railroad and, as you approach the town, Mount McKinley (Denali) is sometimes visible but we were not treated to that view. Several air taxi services provide scenic trips for close up views of the mountain from the air as well as landings on the glacier, weather permitting. We had thought we might do the plane trip but the weather continued to be inclement with intermittent rain showers and clouds hanging over the mountain making any viewing of the mountain unlikely. We decided not to do the plane trip and, instead, took a 124 mile round trip train ride to Hurricane, a trip promoted as the last "whistle stop" railroad in America. It was an extraordinary step back in time. On the way up, we dropped people off to go to their wilderness cabins. One family operate a gold mine in the wilderness, another man and his dog were going to their cabin for a brief "getaway" from business (we were told he owns a chain of motels in Alaska). There were those who looked like "mountain people" and those who seemed to be regular folks who simply choose to make their home on the "wild side". They appeared to be people that my view of "forlorn and lonely" might mean "peace and quiet". The run to Hurricane is provided by the Alaskan Railway as a service to the locals and offered to the tourist as a scenic adventure. There was no "hipe", no "canned speech", just a trip to the hills on a relatively modern train for another view of the Alaskan lifestyle.
We struck up a conversation with a lady from the Northern Indiana/Chicago area who came to Alaska with her husband in 1959, a real pioneer. They homesteaded in Trapper Creek an area renown for its views of Mt. McKinley, which she said are best during the winter months. She said that she adopted Alaska as her home and " has never looked back". We were amused with a story that she related about a new group of homesteaders to Alaska who brought with them the work ethic of the lower 48. They started work on constructing their cabins at 8 in the morning, a break at 10, lunch at 12, a break at 2 and ending their day at 4. She said that the short Alaskan summer with its long days are a call to action and always followed by long Alaskan nights. As the nights begin to cool and the days grew shorter, the group got the message. Many ended up sharing a cabin with others and the following summer, they adjusted their work ethic to comply with the standards of the Alaskan sun. One lesson I have taken from our visit here. The summers are short, the tourist season brief and for those who live here, the labor of four months must provide for 12.
On the way back, the train proved its mettle as a whistle stop as it stopped to pick up people going into town, some for supplies, others for business and others simply returning to their regular pursuits after a brief interlude in the back country. In addition to our stops for passengers, we enjoyed a brief stop along the river where King Salmon were spawning and an unscheduled stop for a young bear crossing the tracks in front of us. Unfortunately, we were not in "camera view" and missed all but its quick descent into the brush. All in all not a bad days journey.
Saturday we drove into Denali. Although there was no rain, it was cloudy and as we entered Denali, clouds obscured any view of Mt McKinley . We registered at the RV Park, picked up our passes for the early morning Tundra tour, attended a sled dog demonstration, watched rafters preparing to cast off for their down river rafting experience and did a drive through the park. We had been told by all who have been to Denali that statistically speaking only 1/3 of the approximately 350,000 annual visitors to Denali are able to view the mountain. Only a few of the people with whom we had spoken in the days leading to our Denali visit reported anything more than a brief glimpse of the mountain and, as a result of the fires in the Fairbanks area, smoke had been a further detraction.
We enjoyed a demonstration of the "working dogs" of Denali. Denali is the only national park patrolled in winter by dog sled. The patrol extends to Wonder Lake and Kantishna and involves a three month round trip of approximately 180 miles. We were surprised to learn that Denali does not receive the heavy snows that we had expected and rainfall much less intense that we expected. However, the reduction in moisture does not translate to a reduction in temperate.
The weather forecast was for clouds on Sunday and rain on Monday. As we departed the coach to meet our 745A bus Sunday morning, the day seemed bright and clouds scarce though the air was cold. As our bus proceeded outside the forest area of the visitors center, we gained a better view of the beautiful blue sky which promised a beautiful day for viewing the animals. Our tour guide raised our hopes by urging us to keep our fingers crossed and just maybe, the Mountain would reveal itself. Our naturalist tour bus driver briefed us on the history of the park, the animals in the park and prepared us for what he hoped we would see on our trip, the big five, bears, caribou, dall sheep, moose and wolves.
As we entered our first area for viewing the mountain from the park road, we were treated to a beautiful view of the mountain in all of its majesty. At the urging of our driver, everyone rushed to get pictures. Our driver cautioned that it is rare to see the mountain at all and advised us that it can disappear into the clouds quickly and often does by the time another viewing site is reached. We rode along the road enjoying an up close and personal viewing of caribou, dall sheep (not so close), a grizzly bear sow and two cubs and scenery that is spectacular as we traveled a tundra of varied distinction. The mountain remained visible during the whole day’s excursion and we were, indeed, treated to a beautiful day in Denali. We did not see any moose or wolves but the bears and caribou were plentiful. Near the end of our day, a family of willow ptarmigam (Alaska’s State bird) crossed the road in front of the bus as if posing for our pictures. We realize that we were permitted to enjoy a rare day in the last great wilderness and it was a "a many splendored thing".
Wednesday, July 21, 2004
We concluded our Seward stay with a visit to the Alaska Sea Life Center. The State provides a facility and staff for ongoing research and rescue of Alaskan sea life. The Center conducts a hospital facility for sick or wounded sea life and a home to abandoned young sea life as well as provides research, collects data and educates the public. Alaska is highly cognizant of the critical balance of nature between maintaining their ecological responsibilities and the part that this natural resource plays in their economy. They spend time and money maintaining a constant vigilance of the sea life and its habitat in hopes that they can both protect their eco system and sustain their economic growth in commercial and sports fishing as well as tourism In Valdez, we watched as researchers counted the "catch of the day", reviewed them for markings that gave valuable historical data and questioned fishermen (and women) as to where the fish had been caught, how many people were fishing and asked related questions for their data assimilation.
We gained further insight into the States commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center.
The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience.
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 60 pounds and a second one approximately 29 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
We gained further insight into the States commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center.
The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience.
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 60 pounds and a second one approximately 29 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
We concluded our Seward stay with a visit to the Alaska Sea Life Center. The State provides a facility and staff for ongoing research and rescue of Alaskan sea life. The Center conducts a hospital facility for sick or wounded sea life and a home to abandoned young sea life as well as provides research, collects data and educates the public. Alaska is highly cognizant of the critical balance of nature between maintaining their ecological responsibilities and the part that this natural resource plays in their economy. They spend time and money maintaining a constant vigilance of the sea life and its habitat in hopes that they can both protect their eco system and sustain their economic growth in commercial and sports fishing as well as tourism In Valdez, we watched as researchers counted the "catch of the day", reviewed them for markings that gave valuable historical data and questioned fishermen (and women) as to where the fish had been caught, how many people were fishing and asked related questions for their data assimilation.
We gained further insight into the State’s commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center. The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience. .
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 63 pounds and a second one approximately 35 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
We concluded our Seward stay with a visit to the Alaska Sea Life Center. The State provides a facility and staff for ongoing research and rescue of Alaskan sea life. The Center conducts a hospital facility for sick or wounded sea life and a home to abandoned young sea life as well as provides research, collects data and educates the public. Alaska is highly cognizant of the critical balance of nature between maintaining their ecological responsibilities and the part that this natural resource plays in their economy. They spend time and money maintaining a constant vigilance of the sea life and its habitat in hopes that they can both protect their eco system and sustain their economic growth in commercial and sports fishing as well as tourism In Valdez, we watched as researchers counted the "catch of the day", reviewed them for markings that gave valuable historical data and questioned fishermen (and women) as to where the fish had been caught, how many people were fishing and asked related questions for their data assimilation.
We gained further insight into the State’s commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center. The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience. .
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 63 pounds and a second one approximately 35 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
We gained further insight into the State’s commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center. The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience. .
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 63 pounds and a second one approximately 35 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
We concluded our Seward stay with a visit to the Alaska Sea Life Center. The State provides a facility and staff for ongoing research and rescue of Alaskan sea life. The Center conducts a hospital facility for sick or wounded sea life and a home to abandoned young sea life as well as provides research, collects data and educates the public. Alaska is highly cognizant of the critical balance of nature between maintaining their ecological responsibilities and the part that this natural resource plays in their economy. They spend time and money maintaining a constant vigilance of the sea life and its habitat in hopes that they can both protect their eco system and sustain their economic growth in commercial and sports fishing as well as tourism In Valdez, we watched as researchers counted the "catch of the day", reviewed them for markings that gave valuable historical data and questioned fishermen (and women) as to where the fish had been caught, how many people were fishing and asked related questions for their data assimilation.
We gained further insight into the State’s commitment to maintaining a watchful eye of its sea life when we attended a brief presentation on the habits of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions at the Sea Life Center. The ranger explained that the population of the Sea Otters and Sea Lions are decreasing annually which, of course, is cause for concern. She cited possible contributing factors as a compromise in the food chain as a result of outside influences such as the Valdez oil spill; disturbance of the animal mating periods by noisy tour boats and their loud speaker and one that was particularly surprising, kayaks. Those who are studying the sea life believe it is possible that the kayak and its one man super ecologically aware passenger is strange looking and threatening to the sea lions, sea otters and seals. They believe that the sea animal may view the silent moving funny looking kayak with man aboard as an orca and thus, something to be feared.
After our brief nature study, we reluctantly bade goodbye to Seward and headed for the Kenai Peninsula and our ultimate destination of Homer. We stopped at a RV Resort on the Kenai River where Ken launched his boat and did a two hour float trip down the river. I dutifully snapped a picture and drove the approximate 20 mile distance to where he exited the river, stiff and groaning from his two hour childlike vigil but satisfied with his accomplishment. Traveling with a 73 year old kid can be "tiring" as well as amusing.
Boating adventure concluded, we stopped at Ninilchik in a State camp ground on the beach. Fishing boats from an adjacent fishing village kept me entertained until well into the night. I watched the 11 PM sunset and the last red streaks of the setting sun as darkness fell at midnight.
We awakened Tuesday morning to the gaiety of clammers scurrying along the beach seeking their limit of razor neck clams at low tide. Ken quickly looked for his shovel but alas, he had misplaced it. He found it the next day but in the meantime, he talked to someone about clamming and was told that you spend one hour digging 60 razor neck clams (the limit per person) and 9 hours cleaning them. That information was enough to make me want to "lose" the shovel forever.
After breakfast, we continued on the short distance to Homer and found a spot on the spit, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Across the bay snow peaked mountains with four (three active) volcanos and glaciers from the Harding Icefield seem convincing evidence that just beyond the quiet waters of the bay rugged country awaited. Seward is just over the mountains but one must drive the 100+ miles around the peninsula to get there. No roads connect this side of the mountain with the other side. Homer and the Kenai Peninsula are well known for their commercial and sports fishing, primarily halibut and salmon though there is clamming as well as there is natural gas exploration in Cook Inlet. People from all over the World come here to fish and Ken has looked forward to it. His first priority was to check out the fishing charters.
We looked into a photo trip of bear country by float plane but that was quickly nixed. five hundred dollars each was too "rich" for our blood, in spite of a full eight hour trip with lunch included and bear sightings assured. We had also considered taking the Alaska State Ferry on a one week trip through the Aleutian Islands but we learned that the ferry makes the trip twice each month and it would depart Tuesday night at 7PM. A decision had to be made quickly and $1,600 seemed a lot of money for something that we were really not sure about. We decided against it but in doing so, we also missed out on a planned visit to Kodiak Island. The next ferry would not leave until July 25. We concluded that The Alaskan Maritime Highway is limited in it’s overall convenience. .
Wednesday, Ken had his deep sea fishing trip, returning to proudly show off his catch of two halibut, one 63 pounds and a second one approximately 35 pounds. Each fisherman on the boat is allowed a catch of two halibut each day but you can go as many days as you have "green to permit". One days catch was sufficient to fill our freezer. We estimate that the cost of the license, the fishing trip and preparation of the fish for the trip home just about matched what we would pay per pound at Costco in LA. But, Ken had the fun of the experience and who can put a price on that?
Thursday we had a side trip to Seldovia, an outlying village down the Peninsula reachable only by air or boat. Along the way, the guide passed by islands well populated with birds of many varieties as well as sea otters, seals and rocks that have been named for animal resemblance among the rocks. It was a ful day with a view of sea life, a visit to an interesting village and chance to reflect upon a lifestyle not unlike that of summer residents on the small Islands off the coast of Maine.
We stopped and talked briefly with a friendly and hospitable local resident. She gave us an overview of the lifestyle and history of Seldovia. She is a teacher and her husband manufactures guitar parts that he ships all over the world. They have managed to find a good life in an area that they believe provides their children with a good safe place in which to grow up. She said that the Island needs people but that the only jobs are the ones that people are able to develop on their own. Thus, it suffers from the economics of survival like so many other places that are otherwise amiable to raising a family and maximizing simple family values. She expressed the hope that as people are able to develop "work at home" careers, such as that of her husband, it will impact the islands like Seldovia and help them develop into independent self sustainable communities. The island has 70 children in grades 1-12. Next year there will not be a kindergarten class, but the year after there will be two kindergartners. Last year there was no graduating class.
Our news source was born on an island off of the State of Washington and moved to Seldovia with her parents 30 years ago. After college and extended travel, she returned to Seldovia with her husband because they felt it was a good place to raise their children. She spoke of her neighbors, the lifestyle and the village with a combination of love, pride and good loyalty embraced with good citizenship.
According to the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce "Seldovia was first settled by the Russians about 1800 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Cook Inlet region. It is located in the sheltered harbor and sunny slopes of Seldovia Bay. What is thought to be the first coal mine in Alaska was operated here by the Russians for their settlements and the Russian fleet. Most of the Russians left the area following the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, but traces of their heritage still remain. A Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891, was for many years, the towns social hub. It was restored in 1981 and remains an impressive landmark on a hill overlooking the harbor."
The original town was built on a boardwalk. According to our tour guide, in the early days, visitors with business in Seldovia would sail up the channel at high tide and tie up to the house of the business man with whom they were planning to conduct business. When their business was concluded, they would leave on the next high tide. The land mass in Seldovia dropped approximately four feet during the 1964 earthquake which caused houses along the waterfront and the old Seldovia boardwalk to flood at high tide. Federal funds were used to remove these structures and backfill the land in preparation for new homes and business. A section of the old Seldovia boardwalk remains at the south end of the town along the slough, which was formerly called Bolshevik Slough (now called Seldovia Slough). It was a fascinating visit back in time to a colorful lifestyle that seemed mystical, inviting and enchanting. Seldovia has the same latitude as Oslo, Norway. It is home to 300 full time residents, a large tourist population in the summers. It’s hardy lifestyle requires a strong constitution, an independent spirit and strong mental discipline. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this unique island that depends on the ability of its citizens to sustain its survival in the same mode as that which sustained the establishment of settlements in the lower 48. For me, this visit provided a further reminder of how far we have come and how strong our spirit can be.
We concluded our week in Homer with a day of rest and relaxation and on Saturday moved up the Kenai Peninsula to Soldotna, another Russian named area in the Kenai Borough where Ken entertained himself with salmon fishing, without success.
Sunday, July 11, 2004
Fourth of July in Valdez was quiet by our lower 48 standards. Perhaps it was us. Ken went fishing and caught a salmon to reinforce our dinner menu. It was okay but would have been better cooked on the grill outside but alas, the dampness did not invite barbecuing.Downtown Valdez had a street fare, a parade of sorts and there were crowds of people but overcast skies and banned fireworks seemed to keep the celebration moderate. A lot of Valdez visitors were fishermen and fishing was undoubtedly celebration enough for them. Different strokes for different folks.
Monday, we awakened to a good steady rain which continued throughout the day. The rain was sufficient for us to alter our departure and we sat out the day snug as a bug in a rug. They need the rain throughout the State and thus, everyone greeted the rain as “manna from heaven”.
Tuesday there was a thinner cloud cover and by the time we were ready to depart the “inlet”, the clouds begin to part and there before us were towering mountains with glaciers and snow covered peaks that seemed to go on forever. For the first time we saw the Valdez that we were sure existed but had not seen. The inlet and the rugged peaks that surround it seemed to reflect what one expects to find where life is sustained by the sea (and, in this case, by the oil that flows from Prudo Bay).
The skies were most cooperative as we climbed from the seashore into the mountain passes and viewed the beautiful mountain peeks that were buried in smoke on our trip into Valdez. As we have traveled throughout this State, I have wondered if I may have been “scenic deprived” in my lifetime. I do not think that I have ever seen an area of beauty as intense as this. Granted, one needs a clear day to see it, but when that happens, the beauty is breathtaking. I smiled as Ken provided his very own inspired, though perhaps a little “melodramatic” appreciation. “What a sight, snow peaked mountains adorned with glaciers that meet the lush green valley and create a roaring glacier river adorned by an assortment of beautiful flowers highlighted by purple fireweed.” I smiled to myself and thought that perhaps I should let him do the narrative for beauty because you all must be getting tired of my “slim vocabulary” of adjectives. Ken is particularly enraptured with the wild flowers and fire weed has become one of his favorites. I will have to research where the fire weed gets its name.
We inadvertently made a wrong turn and ended up in the small village of Chitina, the gateway to the Kennicott/ McCarthy copper mine sixty miles further. As we made our way through the pass, we noticed a car stopped ahead of us. Ken slowed to get a look at what the car might have stopped to view and there, to his delight a moose swam away from us in the small lake. beside the road. Ken said that July 6 shall forever more be known as “moose day”.
We have not spotted a lot of animals on the road though I constantly have the binoculars “at the ready”. Thus, our “moose” viewing was a real treat to our day. Ken has become skeptical of my ability to spot animals from the road and is constantly reminding me “there must be an animal somewhere in that valley, on that hill, in that canyon.!” The book says that you will rarely see an animal from your vehicle, you must get out, be quiet and use the binoculars.
After our “moose experience”, we drove on into the village and discovered our mistake. The road did not lead us to the RV Resort where we wanted to spend the night. It was a dead end road and the next sixty miles was unpaved and difficult. Oh well, Ken said the moose was worth the trip and it was a nice drive. We had lunch turned our “diesel wagon and 300 horses” back to the paved road and headed out of the pass.
We ended up finding a nice “dry camp” site on a small lake about 50 miles out of Palmer and 100 miles out of Anchorage. It was a beautiful spot. Ken practiced his fly fishing technique (he needs practice) and chatted with our fellow “dry campers” who were on their way to Valdez. It was a pleasant stop and not a mosquito around.
Wednesday, we drove through the thriving farming community of Palmer just outside Anchorage. The lush valley of green crops and beautifully manicured lawns exhibited a distinct “pride of ownership” and one sensed a robust economy. I wanted to spend more time there but we missed the turn off into town. Ken noted my displeasure and responded, “Oh, I’m sorry, we’ll stop by on the way to Denali and Fairbanks”.
We arrived in Anchorage, a bustling city of 260,000, found a RV site and did a “drive about”. Of course, we had to find the marina (such as it was) and do a walk around the “tourist” area, shopped at Wal Mart and did some chores before returning to our “coach” and relaxing. We carry on the top of our coach and car a new tire sans rim for both. The theory was that if we should have a flat tire in an “outback area” we would not have to wait for a tire to be shipped in. A nail in a tire on the Saturn in Valdez prompted Ken to put the full size tire for the Saturn on a rim. The Saturn has a “doughnut” for a spare tire but the great distance between towns does not lend itself to driving with a doughnut. So, we did that in Anchorage. Of course, Ken also had to replenish the flies that he lost practicing fly fishing.
Thursday, we drove to Seward and were lucky enough to find a site on the waterfront at a city RV park. My wings were a bit “clipped” by a chest cold so Ken went out to visit the fishing haunts and check out the town. I was content to nurse my cold and watch the birds, seals and boats. From our waterfront perch, we can see the fishing boats going in and out as well as a cruise ship came in and docked across the way for a brief stay. Ken finds entertainment in watching the boats coming and going and provides me with the details of everyone aboard thanks to the binoculars. His people watching is more “practiced” than my animal watching.
Friday we arose to a beautiful sunny day. As we were leaving our “abode”, two nice young couples came by and stopped to chat. One couple lives in Anchorage and the other is visiting from Pennsylvania. I was amused by the way the resident expressed living in Anchorage. “I tell everyone that we live just 15 minutes from Alaska.” That seemed an appropriate reference. Within fifteen minutes of Anchorage one is out in the wild with miles and miles of open road, scenic views and Ken is certain there must be a wild animal out there somewhere.
The salmon are running as well as it is halibut season and people are bringing in their limit. However, Ken is trying to combine his penchant for gold prospecting with his fishing ambitions. Thus, he went to a nearby stream where he planned to pan for an ounce of gold and once he had that, fish for dinner. Yes if you believe that – the Golden Gate Bridge is available -- just check with Ken.
Saturday we drove up to Exit Glacier which is part of the Harding (named for President Warren G. Harding who visited Seward in 1923) Icefield. “ The Harding Icefield and its 32 glaciers covers more than half of the 607,805-acre Kenai Fjords National Park and conceals a mountain range under ice several thousand feet thick.. At Exit Glacier, the only part of the park that is accessible by road, you can get close enough to peer into deep blue glacial crevasses.” [National Park Service brochure]. It is an active glacier and care must be taken to avoid large blocks of ice calves that break from its face without warning.
Both Seward and Valdez were virtually destroyed in the 1964 earthquake. Both have reemerged as strong and vital contributors to Alaska’s economy. The scenic deep water fjords of Valdez and Seward were once glacier field valleys. The fjords are actively dropping lower into the ocean, as they are pulled down by the Earths crustal movements that keep tugging the mountains into the sea. Changes in temperature and precipitation cause glacial advance and retreat. Thus, nature is always at work. One sign lauded the Exit Glacier as “natures bulldozer”. The great Alaska Earthquake of 1964 dropped the fjords in Seward 6 feet in 3.5 minutes.
There you have it – one full month on the road.
Monday, we awakened to a good steady rain which continued throughout the day. The rain was sufficient for us to alter our departure and we sat out the day snug as a bug in a rug. They need the rain throughout the State and thus, everyone greeted the rain as “manna from heaven”.
Tuesday there was a thinner cloud cover and by the time we were ready to depart the “inlet”, the clouds begin to part and there before us were towering mountains with glaciers and snow covered peaks that seemed to go on forever. For the first time we saw the Valdez that we were sure existed but had not seen. The inlet and the rugged peaks that surround it seemed to reflect what one expects to find where life is sustained by the sea (and, in this case, by the oil that flows from Prudo Bay).
The skies were most cooperative as we climbed from the seashore into the mountain passes and viewed the beautiful mountain peeks that were buried in smoke on our trip into Valdez. As we have traveled throughout this State, I have wondered if I may have been “scenic deprived” in my lifetime. I do not think that I have ever seen an area of beauty as intense as this. Granted, one needs a clear day to see it, but when that happens, the beauty is breathtaking. I smiled as Ken provided his very own inspired, though perhaps a little “melodramatic” appreciation. “What a sight, snow peaked mountains adorned with glaciers that meet the lush green valley and create a roaring glacier river adorned by an assortment of beautiful flowers highlighted by purple fireweed.” I smiled to myself and thought that perhaps I should let him do the narrative for beauty because you all must be getting tired of my “slim vocabulary” of adjectives. Ken is particularly enraptured with the wild flowers and fire weed has become one of his favorites. I will have to research where the fire weed gets its name.
We inadvertently made a wrong turn and ended up in the small village of Chitina, the gateway to the Kennicott/ McCarthy copper mine sixty miles further. As we made our way through the pass, we noticed a car stopped ahead of us. Ken slowed to get a look at what the car might have stopped to view and there, to his delight a moose swam away from us in the small lake. beside the road. Ken said that July 6 shall forever more be known as “moose day”.
We have not spotted a lot of animals on the road though I constantly have the binoculars “at the ready”. Thus, our “moose” viewing was a real treat to our day. Ken has become skeptical of my ability to spot animals from the road and is constantly reminding me “there must be an animal somewhere in that valley, on that hill, in that canyon.!” The book says that you will rarely see an animal from your vehicle, you must get out, be quiet and use the binoculars.
After our “moose experience”, we drove on into the village and discovered our mistake. The road did not lead us to the RV Resort where we wanted to spend the night. It was a dead end road and the next sixty miles was unpaved and difficult. Oh well, Ken said the moose was worth the trip and it was a nice drive. We had lunch turned our “diesel wagon and 300 horses” back to the paved road and headed out of the pass.
We ended up finding a nice “dry camp” site on a small lake about 50 miles out of Palmer and 100 miles out of Anchorage. It was a beautiful spot. Ken practiced his fly fishing technique (he needs practice) and chatted with our fellow “dry campers” who were on their way to Valdez. It was a pleasant stop and not a mosquito around.
Wednesday, we drove through the thriving farming community of Palmer just outside Anchorage. The lush valley of green crops and beautifully manicured lawns exhibited a distinct “pride of ownership” and one sensed a robust economy. I wanted to spend more time there but we missed the turn off into town. Ken noted my displeasure and responded, “Oh, I’m sorry, we’ll stop by on the way to Denali and Fairbanks”.
We arrived in Anchorage, a bustling city of 260,000, found a RV site and did a “drive about”. Of course, we had to find the marina (such as it was) and do a walk around the “tourist” area, shopped at Wal Mart and did some chores before returning to our “coach” and relaxing. We carry on the top of our coach and car a new tire sans rim for both. The theory was that if we should have a flat tire in an “outback area” we would not have to wait for a tire to be shipped in. A nail in a tire on the Saturn in Valdez prompted Ken to put the full size tire for the Saturn on a rim. The Saturn has a “doughnut” for a spare tire but the great distance between towns does not lend itself to driving with a doughnut. So, we did that in Anchorage. Of course, Ken also had to replenish the flies that he lost practicing fly fishing.
Thursday, we drove to Seward and were lucky enough to find a site on the waterfront at a city RV park. My wings were a bit “clipped” by a chest cold so Ken went out to visit the fishing haunts and check out the town. I was content to nurse my cold and watch the birds, seals and boats. From our waterfront perch, we can see the fishing boats going in and out as well as a cruise ship came in and docked across the way for a brief stay. Ken finds entertainment in watching the boats coming and going and provides me with the details of everyone aboard thanks to the binoculars. His people watching is more “practiced” than my animal watching.
Friday we arose to a beautiful sunny day. As we were leaving our “abode”, two nice young couples came by and stopped to chat. One couple lives in Anchorage and the other is visiting from Pennsylvania. I was amused by the way the resident expressed living in Anchorage. “I tell everyone that we live just 15 minutes from Alaska.” That seemed an appropriate reference. Within fifteen minutes of Anchorage one is out in the wild with miles and miles of open road, scenic views and Ken is certain there must be a wild animal out there somewhere.
The salmon are running as well as it is halibut season and people are bringing in their limit. However, Ken is trying to combine his penchant for gold prospecting with his fishing ambitions. Thus, he went to a nearby stream where he planned to pan for an ounce of gold and once he had that, fish for dinner. Yes if you believe that – the Golden Gate Bridge is available -- just check with Ken.
Saturday we drove up to Exit Glacier which is part of the Harding (named for President Warren G. Harding who visited Seward in 1923) Icefield. “ The Harding Icefield and its 32 glaciers covers more than half of the 607,805-acre Kenai Fjords National Park and conceals a mountain range under ice several thousand feet thick.. At Exit Glacier, the only part of the park that is accessible by road, you can get close enough to peer into deep blue glacial crevasses.” [National Park Service brochure]. It is an active glacier and care must be taken to avoid large blocks of ice calves that break from its face without warning.
Both Seward and Valdez were virtually destroyed in the 1964 earthquake. Both have reemerged as strong and vital contributors to Alaska’s economy. The scenic deep water fjords of Valdez and Seward were once glacier field valleys. The fjords are actively dropping lower into the ocean, as they are pulled down by the Earths crustal movements that keep tugging the mountains into the sea. Changes in temperature and precipitation cause glacial advance and retreat. Thus, nature is always at work. One sign lauded the Exit Glacier as “natures bulldozer”. The great Alaska Earthquake of 1964 dropped the fjords in Seward 6 feet in 3.5 minutes.
There you have it – one full month on the road.
Monday, July 05, 2004
Sunday, July 04, 2004
Saturday, June 26 - 2004 – We departed White Horse approximately 830 AM for a picturesque and uneventful drive into Skagway. We were greeted at the border by a young but rather “sour” border agent who “welcomed” us home.
Once through the border, we proceeded downhill on a steep decline that had several emergency outlets for “runaway” trucks which underscored the severity of the grade. Once down the hill, we entered Skagway, the garden city of Alaska, if one is to believe its very own published public relations. Skagway is a small village no larger than a postage stamp, with the roaring Skagway River flowing through it to the Fjord of the sound to the inside passage. Once entrenched in our “space” and connected to all of the amenities of home (water, sewer, electrical, television and the web) we headed downtown to check out the town and its history. The streets were well endowed with tourists. Two cruise ships sat quietly at the nearby docks while their passengers dashed in and out of stores seeking “baubles” and trinkets for friends and family at home.
In Whitehorse, we reserved and paid for a trip on the White Pass and Yukon Scenic Railway which retraces the long hard route that the “prospectors for gold” endured in pursuit of their fortune for gold during the great Yukon gold rush of 1898. However, no tickets could be found. He told me where he was putting them when he brought them in and at my suggestion of another location, clearly affirmed his decision as to where they should be. It was clear that he knew best. No more was said until he went to retrieve them and as he searched, it was a time for me to be silent. In fairness, Ken does not normally lose things (misplace yes - lose no) so we were both surprised that in spite of our combined quest, the tickets could not be located. With this discovery, Ken went to the ticket office with his receipt (which he did have) and they phoned the issuing office who faxed a copy of our originals. Our “investment” was saved. After the 90+ temperatures of Whitehorse the cooler air of Skagway was very pleasant. We concluded our day with a pleasant walk to the river and through the residential neighborhood downtown for a peak at how the residents live.
As we crossed the Canadian border into Alaska, a big sign reminded us that we were entering a “different time zone”. We rarely change our watches, depending on our inner clocks and “time awareness” to keep us on time when “schedule” is important. Thus, at 5AM Sunday, June 27, Ken announced that it was 6 (one hour faster than our Pacific Daylight Time and I dutifully crawled out of bed, put the coffee on, showered and did my thing and he followed. We were to be at the train by 815. At 8A (by our calculation) we drove through town and couldn’t believe our eyes, the streets were empty. Not a soul was about, not even the ghosts of Skagway, if there are such things. Even more revealing was the absence of trains preparing for the trip. Suddenly Ken said, “Oh – we are in Alaska – We are one hour later than Canada – not earlier!!! We thought it was eight, our watch said it was seven and in fact, it was 6AM. So, as they say, if you have a lemon, make lemonade.
We drove up the hill for pictures overlooking the fjord below and the town. Ken wanted to make the five mile trip over to Dyea but I nixed that when I discovered it was an unpaved road. Dyea, like Skagway, was a pivotal part of the great gold rush but it is now just a few old and disintegrating buildings, a cemetery and a dirt road that provides access to it for the real “history buff”. With still 1 and ½ hours before our train departure, we went back to the coach, for another cup of coffee and agreed, that in the future, one of us should change our watch.
At 745 (Alaskan time) we returned to the train depot and the “beehive” of activity that greeted us was as we expected. Passengers from the RV resorts, camp grounds, hotels, lodges and three new cruise ships scurried to board the trains and the sights and sounds gave proof that the town was, indeed, alive and well. At 815A we boarded our train and commenced our climb through the canyon that thousands of “stampeders” (the term used to identify the men and women who sought their fortune in the great gold rush of 1898) traveled by foot and on horseback to get to the Yukon.
As one views the route and sees first hand what hardships must have been endured by those pioneering spirits our awareness is raised as to just how “soft” and “spoiled” we have become. Few of us have any concept as to the price that has been paid by others in order that we might enjoy the riches of our country that we take for granted.
As I looked down into Dead Horse Canyon, the canyon got its name from the mem and horses that fell to their death from the narrow path that wound its way up the deep canyon below, I was awed by the courage of those prospectors. They not only scaled those canyon walls the Canadian Mounties required that they carry 500 pounds of supplies to meet their needs once they reached the Yukon. This was their price just to gain the right to search for the gold miles above that canyon and once there, they could not be sure of success. I know that I neither now, nor in my youth, possessed the courage, stamina or motivation to endure the kinds of hardships that those pioneer entrepreneurs endured.
The canyon trip was beautiful, but more than the beauty was the inspiration of seeing first hand and experiencing the wonder of the challenges that those “stampeders” withstood. Their efforts and those of others throughout our country who paid the price to retrieve the gold, silver, copper, oil and other minerals that have played a major part in our industrialization paved the way for us to know the “good life”. The great gold rush of the Klondike was but one such event in our American journey. Our natural resources have been tapped at tremendous individual costs, thanks to a rare pioneer spirit.
June 28. After our train trip, we decided to stay over in Skagway another day and take the FJORD EXPRESS to Juneau . Reservations were made for a 730AM departure which would include a brief stop at Haines for additional passengers before making the 90 mile trip into Juneau, a one way trip of 3 ½ hours. We arrived at the dock at 7AM, noting that another three cruise ships were in to provide the tourists to support the life’s blood of Skagway’s short (3 ½- 4 months) tourism season. Our boat captain, a young man in his late 30's to early 40's and his wife, were our hosts for the boat trip to Juneau. Their home port is Haines and they are the owners of the Fjord Express. They operate from mid-May to early September, seven days per week, 14 hours a day. In a discussion with Ken, the Captain revealed that he has to have 15 passengers to break even and his boat must operate at full capacity (54 persons) for two of those months for him to break even for the short season. Our boat was almost at full capacity with approximately 50 paying passengers.
The captain and his wife are dedicated to giving their customers a good bargain and we stopped several times to view eagles in the trees on the coastline, watch stellar seals resting in their rookery, harbor seals at play, sea otters, and caught a close up view of the Davis Glacier en route to Juneau through the Fjord.
We watched a family engaged in “gill net” fishing, a 48 hour special fishing endeavor sanctioned by Alaska’s fish and game and enjoyed whale watching both en route to and returning from Juneau. It was a very educational trip as well as pleasant, smooth, and relaxing. Our hostess served us a morning muffin and coffee and an evening cup of soup and roll to add to our comfort and overcome our need for refreshments. It was a wonderful day and a trip that I would recommend to any “independent” traveler to the Skagway or Haines vicinity.
Juneau is a beautiful city (town?) of some 30,000 people and is the capital of Alaska. We were surprised at the number of trucks and cars that occupy the limited roads (Juneau is accessible only by boat or plane) and the hustle and bustle of enterprise that seemed to prevail. It is a quaint and lovely modern day city. Our tour included a drive by the Governor’s mansion, a 2 ½ stop downtown for lunch and shopping and a stop at the Mendenhall Glacier for a first hand view of that marvel of nature. At the Visitors Center we viewed a film about the glacier and learned that its depths are receding (melting at its source) at a rate of 150 to 160 feet per year. While the Mendenhall Glacier is receding, the Taku Glacier (also part of the Juneau ice field) adds more ice than it loses from melting, which causes it to advance. (Natures way of keeping scientists and researchers occupied?)
The Mendenhall Glacier, is one of 40 large glaciers (there are more than 100 smaller ones) that occupy over 5,000 square miles of what is called the Juneau ice field, North America’s fifth largest ice field. Juneau was much cooler and after the hot temperatures from our White Horse experience, a coat was not uncomfortable. Juneau’s average temperature in the winter is 20 degrees and, according to our guide, it does not get a lot of snow and that which they do get, does not stick. (A booklet of facts about Juneau lists an average of 100 inches of snow per year). We returned to Skagway at 830P after what was surely a full day.
Tuesday, June 29 we departed Skagway and made our way back up the mountainside from whence we had come. As we returned through White Horse we once again confronted the heavy smoke from the many wild fires that now burned throughout the region. Ken was disappointed that he would not be able to visit Dawson City, a destination that he had looked forward to visiting. We drove through the heavy smoke, stopping at Klune lake in the Klune National Forest or the night. We had what was undoubtedly a lovely spot on the lake but the smoke prohibited our view of anything more than the waters edge.
Wednesday June 30, we continued on through the heavy smoke to Tok, and spent the night at the Sourdough RV park just outside Tok. We visited briefly with the owner operator of the park and learned that he had been in hotel management in the “lower 48" before coming to Tok. His wife’s family live in Tok and at their encouragement, he and his wife decided to buy the RV park and are enthusiastic about developing it and making Tok their home. Their “season” is approximately four months and they will spend the winter months improving and maintaining the park in preparation for the next season.
Thursday, July 1, we enjoyed breakfast at the resorts restaurant where sourdough pancakes were the speciality. Ken, who fancies himself somewhat of an expert on sourdough pancakes (though his are made of buck wheat ), pronounced the pancakes some of the best sourdough pancakes that he has had. I agreed that they were good and not too sour.
Our trip into Valdez was one of the longest 200 mile days that we have experienced. The roads were intermittently under repair, gravel and dirt with guided detours. It was a tiring day but as we moved toward Valdez the smoke became less dense. However, when we arrived i, the sky was overcast and gray with smoke merged into the fog. Though it was not the thick smoke of our previous two days, it was just as gray and our views just as encumbered.
Valdez is not only the outlet for the Alaskan pipeline, it is a hearty fishing village and once had a very prosperous gold mining operation. It’s history is checkered with recovery dating back to devastation of the town by a 9.2 earthquake which lasted 4 minutes on Good Friday in 1964, its rebound was enhanced by the building of the 799 mile oil pipeline from Prudo Bay to Valdez that was approved by the US Congress in 1973. It once again suffered a calamity of major magnitude with the oil spill on Good Friday 1989.
Many residents of Fairbanks escaped to Valdez to get out of the smoke and unhealthy air quality for their fourth of July holiday. RV space was at a premium. We were lucky enough to get a spot overlooking the sound but we were warned that there is a test project being conducted at night which might interfere with our sleep. We were just glad to be out of the smoke and the noise was not bad at all.
Friday was a day of viewing the town, checking out the fishing and doing our travel chores inasmuch as this RV has no maid service available. We do not have any television here in Valdez. Our resort does not have cable and the local television station is out of order. Thus, we must rely on our own limited resources so our entertainment is limited to our DVD resources. So far, we have watched an old Humphrey Bogart movie, a John Wayne movie and two of the three LORD OF THE RINGS movies.
Saturday, July 3 we boarded “The Glacier Spirit” for a tour of Prince William Sound and a visit to Columbia Glacier, which is the largest tidewater glacier in North America. It is receding and we were unable to actually visit the glacier because of the “calving” (ice bergs breaking off from the main glacier) that jammed the moraine. A moraine is the terminus of gravel and dirt that is pushed forward by the glacier. As the glacier recedes it leaves a mound of gravel and boulders which is called a moraine. The ice that is broken off from the receding glacier is blocked at low tide by the moraine until high tide comes in and carries the ice bergs out to sea. Now, isn’t that more than you wanted to know about the sex life of a receding glacier?
We saw bald eagles watching from the shoreline, viewed a throng of sea otters, watched sea lions at play and tried to catch a good look at a shy whale that fed nearby. It was the first day of commercial salmon fishing and our captain was mindful of the many nets that lay in our path as we made our way through the narrows and into the sound as well as we were able to get a first hand look at the commercial fishermen bringing in their nets filled with the pink salmon of the season. The silver salmon do not come in until later but this is the prime season for the “pinks”. Our day aboard the boat started at 1130 and we returned at 730P in thick fog with navigation by electronics, radar, sonar and GPS. The beauty of the sound was camouflaged by the overcast and fog but the wonder of sailing through the ice bergs created by the receding glacier and the beauty that one could barely see with the binoculars was an ongoing miracle of visual delight.
During the night, we were excited to hear the pitter patter of rain on our roof, which is a good omen for the forest fires. We hope that this gift of rain has a wide scope and that it will help overcome the devastation of the fires that plague the State.
Sunday, July 4 – we got up to cloudy skies that are gradually clearing and for the first time we can see across the bay to the oil storage area where the pipeline culminates. Further, as the clouds slowly rise, a large panorama of mountains with remaining mounds of snow appear revealing to us for the first time, the real beauty of this area.
We are now in our fourth week and each week has been a wonderful adventure in beauty and nature. As we enjoyed our boat trip through Prince William Sound, I could not help but compare these islands with the islands of the Caribbean Islands. There, the sun and warm air invites and seduces. What we have seen so far in Alaska, is a matching beauty but the air can be harsh and the water uninviting and defiant. To enjoy this land one must be able to meet the challenge of a cold dispassionate mother nature who surely practices true tough love.