OUR SOUTH AFRICAN TRIP
This is an overview of our wonderful trip to South Africa. As background, in early February 2012, Ken announced that he had found a trip to Africa that he thought we should consider. Africa has long been on our “wish list” (or Ken’s “bucket list”) but we were already scheduled for a South Pacific cruise and another trip so soon after was just too much to consider. However, I agreed to look at it and I was impressed with what it covered and the “price was right”. Thus, it all began.
.
We committed to the trip through a company called Sky Auction. We received confirmation of our purchase and ultimately an e mail with locator's codes for our air fare and a voucher for our tour and that was it. There was no pressure to buy anything else, no commentary on what to do or things to plan. How strange and thus, I wondered if we had bought a “pig in a poke”. As it turned out, this may have been the “trip of our lifetime” (and we’ve lived a lot of years). After a few inquiries from me and assurances from Sky Auction, we packed our bags and departed Los Angeles to New York May 4 in preparation for our scheduled flight to South Africa May 5.
We arrived in Johannesburg May 6 and we, along with 3 other couples (who were on the same plane), were met at the airport by our guide, Chris. He introduced himself, took charge and oversaw our transfer to the Emperor’s Palace Hotel. We checked in, rested after our roughly 24 hours of flying time from LA to Johannesburg, had lunch at a nearby casino and relaxed. Our fellow passengers were able to squeeze in some sightseeing in Johannesburg, but we didn’t have that much energy.
We reassembled at the hotel with our guide at 6P for an overview of the next two weeks of travel and familiarization with the schedule, expectations (promptness, adherence to safety rules, precautions, special needs etc.) and an overview of what we could expect. We were advised that our schedule the next day would include a wake up call at 6AM which Chris would order, breakfast at 630A, luggage out for pick up by 710A and departure at 730A. Our guide was personable but authoritarian which caused Ken to wonder aloud whether he might also have a bull whip to which a fellow passenger responded, “be late and you’ll see.” We all chuckled. The next morning when we met for breakfast at 630A (in spite of not receiving our “wake up” call) Chris was unhappy with the front desk and appeared to let them know in no uncertain terms. Our group felt smug. We had proved that we were “travel worthy”.
Promptly at 730A, we made our way out of Johannesburg, onto the freeways and into the countryside. It was a foggy morning and the air was filled with smog. As Angelenos, we felt “right at home” but surprised. Because Johannesburg is a gold and coal mining area, we assumed it was prone to poor air quality because of the procedures used in mining and manufacturing. However, I later talked with someone who had visited Johannesburg a few days prior or after we were there and they did not experience smog. Thus, we concluded that there may have been a fire or burning of brush together with the fog that contributed to what we thought was typical poor air quality. Our journey took us past gold and coal mining operations that led us into what seemed like miles and miles of “cultivated” forest that Chris said is part of the replanting process of the timber industry.
Johannesburg is a large, bustling, modern city, impressive in size with well-maintained freeways and roads. Chris had started our briefing session the night before with “a welcome back” and admonished us to “forget any preconceived notions about Africa that we might have brought with us". By mid-morning, I recognized the wisdom of his comments and wondered what I had expected to find. This was a modern industrialized country with all of the amenities that we take for granted in America. I was being enlightened, which is the reason people should travel. It is a big and interesting world and a small one at that. After two hours on the road, we stopped for refreshments, stretched our legs and used the public “facilities” which I think most of us needed.
Once back on the road, Chris continued with the history of Africa, giving us background on the pain and suffering that goes along with the development and merging together of different cultures, races and ideas. I had always thought that South Africa had been settled by Dutch farmers but I quickly learned that while it was the Dutch who first settled in South Africa, they were not farmers seeking a new way of life (as we think of America’s development). They came at the behest of the Dutch shipping industry to establish a port for resupply of ships transporting cargo between Europe and Asia. Our guide’s ancestors were part of that initial group of white settlers who settled in South Africa in the mid 1600’s. He proudly announced that he was more African than most of the blacks who live in South Africa. At the time he made that statement, I thought that his comment was a common position of the descendants of the early settlers (with whom I associated the term Afrikaner). Thus began my/our “enlightenment” of South Africa's culture, lifestyle and history into what appears to be a successful racial fusion of equality and respect.
I apologize to Chris for my inability to do justice to his lessons. There was simply too much to absorb, remember and assimilate. However, I cannot thank him enough for the knowledge that he so elegantly provided and the history that he shared with us. I would recommend him to anyone considering a first trip to South Africa and, I suspect that he has even greater wisdom to share with those who have progressed beyond South Africa 101.
Our first tourist stop was at a graveyard in Pilgrim’s Rest, a small town that has been declared a national monument. As we walked through the graveyard, I was reminded of the graveyard in Tombstone, Arizona, a boom town in America’s Old West gold and silver mining tradition, and where the remains of many historic “good guys and villains alike” are buried
Chris pointed out that every grave laid facing the same direction, except for a famous Robber’s Grave which lay perpendicular to the others, is marked simply by a cross and reads Robbers Grave. As the wording suggests, the man was shot stealing a tent from a miner. The tent represented the miner’s “home”, the most valuable of a man’s assets and stealing it was a crime. Thus, the punishment was harsh but suitable to the crime. Sounds like our old West to me.
Pilgrim’s Rest was declared a gold field in 1873 and immediately lured people searching for “gold” to the area. Towards the 19th century claims were bought up and underground mining was started. The mine was closed down in 1971 and the village sold to the government as a national museum. Gold mining was started again in 1998. I was not clear whether there are currently any mining operations but I didn’t see any. The town’s original architecture remains largely unchanged since the town was declared a National Monument in 1986.
After our stop at the cemetery, we had lunch in the village and did a quick walk through the stalls where the locals presented their wares for purchase. Back on the road, we traveled to the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve protecting the Blyde River Canyon and the geological formations around Bourke's Luck Potholes, where the Treur River tumbles into the Blyde below. Southwards of the canyon, the reserve follows the escarpment, to include the Devil's and God's
Window. We enjoyed the vast beauty of Bourke’s Luck Potholes and marveled at nature’s creative resources by virtue of sheer water power and time. Those of the group who were able to “go the distance” into the Pothole area were treated to a view of a family of baboons in the nearby rocks. Similarly the sheer cliffs at God’s Window provided a viewing point into the horizon that seemed forever. God’s Window features prominently in the plot of the 1980
cult film The Gods Must Be Crazy. Near the end of the movie, the
Bushman character Xi (played by
Namibian bush farmer
N!xau) travels to God’s Window, and due to some low-lying
cloud cover believes it to be the end of the Earth. Chris set the stage for a later briefing on the history and fate of the South African Bushman, but that would be for another day.
Our hotel, the Casa Del Sol in Hazyview, was only a short drive from the entrance to Kruger National Park. It was the “slow season” and we were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded into a very comfortable and roomy suite with a private patio. Dinner was served in the dining room and an evening of “spirited” conversation was enjoyed.
The next morning we picked up our breakfast “to go” the hotel had prepared for us, and departed the facility at 545AM. Chris told us that an early admission to the park would increase our chances of early animal sightings and we were not disappointed. Within the first 30 minutes of our entrance into the park, we had seen a “white rhino”, the rear end of a fleeing leopard and an elephant – 3 of the famous “big five” of Kruger fame.
Kruger National Park covers over 7,000 square miles and extends 360 kilometres (220 mi) from north to south and 65 kilometres (40 mi) from east to west.. The park is part of the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere, an area designated by the United Nations Education and Scientific Organisation (UNESCO) as an International Man and Biosphere Reserve (the "Biosphere"). The park has 9 main gates that allow entrance to the different camps.
In 1895, Jakob Louis van Wyk introduced in the Volksraad of the old South African Republic, a motion to create the game reserve which would become the Kruger National Park. That motion, introduced together with another Volksraad member by the name of R. K. Loveday, resulted in the proclamation by Paul Kruger, of a “Government Wildlife Park” in 1898. The park would later be known as the Sabi Game Reserve. In 1928 the name was changed to Kruger National Park, in honor of Paul Kruger. Kruger National Park is a
“big five” national park with
147 species of animals and over
500 species of birds. (Note: portions of the above were obtained from the Internet. ) We were returned to our hotel at 530 PM, tired, happy and excited about our first day in “the bush”. After dinner, Ken and I retired to our room and were in bed by 9PM in anticipation of another long day on the morrow. Our traveling companions reported similar experiences with fatigue and similarly retired early.
Our wake up call the next morning was 6AM, with a planned 730AM departure for our drive to Swaziland. We would be required to clear customs and immigration in South Africa and enter Swaziland with proper documentation to enter a foreign and independent country. Chris provided us background on the small country which is the Kingdom of Swaziland, its history and lifestyle. “The Swazi people descend from the southern Bantu who migrated from Central Africa in the 15th and 16th centuries. The Anglo-Boer War saw the United Kingdom make Swaziland a protectorate under its direct control. Swaziland gained independence in 1968. Swaziland is a member of the Southern African Development Community, the African Union, and the Commonwealth of Nations. The head of state is the king, who appoints the prime minister and a small number of representatives for both chambers of parliament.” (Chris covered this but my memory needed help which I found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swaziland
We arrived at the border shortly before noon and once cleared to enter Swaziland, continued on to the Milwane Bee Hive Resort, a private resort located in a wild life sanctuary that covers 4,500 hectares. The sanctuary comprises a southern and northern section. The southern section is predominately open grassland and vegetation that stretches to the distant Nyonyane Mountain with its exposed granite peak known as the “Rock of Execution”. Nyonyane Mountain is where ancient San or Bushmen once lived and where Swazi Royal graves are situated. Thus, it has historical significance. Behind the Nyonyane Mountains, the Mantenga waterfall and beautiful Usushwana Valley form the divide before stretching up to the northern section, which includes one of the highest surrounding points at Luphohlo. The sanctuary was established by Ted and Liz Reilly, the founders of Milwane and Swaziland’s first conservation area. The family of the early Reilly pioneers still manages and lives on the Sanctuary.
We stopped at the entrance to the sanctuary and did a tour of the building where pictures of Swaziland’s King and Queen were prominently visible along with a history of the development of the sanctuary. The Swaziland royal family has been very supportive of reestablishing the diminishing wild animal population in Swaziland. Their royal “clout” has been effective in helping preserve and protect the animals that are indigenous to the area but had all but disappeared in the “rush of progress”.
After our brief interlude at the reception office, we drove the dirt road to our camp and passed by wild animals that barely gave us notice. Chris stopped frequently for “photo ops” of animals grazing in the fields. A prominent sign alerted us to the presence of alligators at the red and muddy looking lake adjacent to the main lodge reminded us that WE were the interlopers.
We briefly toured the main facility before checking out our “bee hive” for the night. Chris explained that many of the religious beliefs in Africa embrace the concept of “spirits” and that evil spirits can dwell in the corners of a room or building. Thus, sleeping rooms are round and without corners. Our “bee hives” were a round structure with what appeared to be thatch netting over wooden framing. Ken was very impressed with the structure and was amazed at the quality and amount of work that it represented. We had all of the comforts of home, including electricity, running water, a private bath and facilities for our morning coffee. Who could want more? After getting settled, it was time to join the group for dinner in the main dining room. After dinner, the staff presented a brief presentation of tribal entertainment as we all sat around the perpetual camp fire that has burned continuously since 1994 when apartheid was suspended and no longer deemed the law of the land.
During our “learning sessions”, Chris mesmerized us with the story of Apartheid and expressed great pride in how Nelson Mandela stood up to the purveyors of what was revealed to be an ill-conceived, senseless and despicable act of racism . He gave us the history of the evolution of South African politics and with obvious pride, expressed his appreciation for the contributions made by Mandela in the resolution of what was a great distraction for the country. Chris not only gave us history, he gave us specific dates and details of the events that he related. The microphone in the van did not work well and Chris had a “brogue” that I had some difficulty following. But, as the week progressed, I grew familiar with his “brogue” and could understand him and better appreciate the information that he was sharing with us. Nevertheless, there was too much for me to remember and it is with my sincere apology that I call upon the World Wide Web for assistance in sharing many of the details that Chris passed along to us in shameless detail. On several occasions, Chris was emphatic in his acknowledgment that South Africa’s success in achieving its current status had not come easily. He reiterated many times how close the country had come to an all-out civil war and expressed pride that it had been spared.
The next morning, (after another early wake-up call and sumptuous South African breakfast in the main hall) we climbed into our “chariot” and made our way back through the sanctuary, enjoying a last glance at the happy animals in the fields that seemed a fitting homage to what was a great experience and visit to Swaziland.
As we “hit the road” to our next destination, Chris, enlightened us further in South African history and the journey that the country had taken to achieve its present day status. My memory of what he covered on a given day (except as it relates to a specific location that we were visiting) is flawed. However, we learned about the Anglo-Boer Wars and the impact of the Dutch and British influence on the South Africa of today. It was all very interesting, very relevant to our understanding of the South Africa that we were visiting but far too complex for me to “recap” in this “trip summary”. Our Canadian traveling companions told us that they had friends who had Chris as their guide on the same itinerary a year or so ago and they had recommended that they request him as their guide. They did not do so, but we all agreed that he was worth requesting and we had “lucked” out.
We reentered South Africa and made our way into what was billed as the Kingdom of the Zulus in the Kwa-Zulu Natal Province. We arrived at our Elephant Lake Hotel on the shores of the St Lucia Estuary in the town of St Lucia early enough in the afternoon to enjoy an “optional” Eco cruise on Lake St Lucia, an Eco-friendly World Heritage site. As we glided along over the war, we were absorbed with the marvelous views of hippopotamus basking in the waters of the lake, rare birds flying above our head and alligators basking innocently in the sun on the banks beyond. (Gotta know – watching ‘em is better than being up to your “ass in alligators”.) Chris awaited us as we departed the boat and drove us to a nearby bar where we had our first look at the Indian Ocean just beyond the dunes. We celebrated this “first look see” with a festive glass of wine before returning to the hotel and preparing for dinner. While we waited for dinner, Chris knocked at our door, urging us to go to the pool area where we could see two hippos getting a drink of water. We were all thrilled to see those big animals comfortably drink from the pool before us and then lumber off as if they were a family pet, grabbing a drink from a pan of water. It was an exciting and unforgettable moment. Ken tried to get closer for a better picture but Chris warned him to stay back because the hippos can be dangerous. The experience highlighted the group’s dinner conversation and the evening concluded with the karaoke music of a one man. Chris serenaded us with a song and his rendition of The Battle Hymn of the Republic. Another early departure was in store, so Ken and I said good night trekked off to bed.
Our departure time the next morning was a wee bit later, 8 (I believe) but again, a full day was in store for us. We made our way to Shakaland where we were introduced to the culture, lifestyle, traditions and beliefs of the Zulus at an “authentic recreation of the Great Kraal overlooking the Phobane Lake”. Our tribal guide was a personable young fellow named Joe, who didn’t make points when he called me Granny, but otherwise, was charismatic and entertaining. After we had been given an opportunity to witness the assegai-wielding warriors, visit the medicine man and see him prepare his concoctions, view the spear making and sample the bear, we were led to the dining room where a luncheon was served buffet style. After lunch we were entertained with a presentation of traditional tribal dancing which was well rehearsed, performed to perfection and lovely in its display. I felt that we had experienced an enchanting and unique encounter with another era as we said goodbye to the Chief and these charming descendants of Shaka Zulu to continue on our way.
After our visit in Swaziland and Shakaland, Chris gave us some insight into the relationship between the “tribes” and the vanishing breed of Bushmen, believed to be the oldest inhabitants of Africa. During the course of his many dissertations I had concluded that he believes that Africa is the universe from which the original homo sapien originated. Thus, I surmised that his initial greeting of “welcome back” was intended to instill in us a mindset that would accept his belief that Africa was where it all began. I believe that these are views that may be shared by many and I respect those views. I even agree that there is evidence of human life dating back for thousands of years and perhaps the saga of the Bushmen in Africa gives some credence to the existence and evolution of human life beyond that commonly accepted by religious scholars accept. But, this is an “observation” without forethought and outside the mainstream of my commonly held belief. But -- I digress.
The Bushmen were hunters who had no understanding or concept of land or animal ownership. As settlers moved into the areas formerly occupied by Bushmen and established confines of ownership, Bushmen didn’t understand the constraints of ownership and that the fruits of the land were no longer theirs for the taking. They were used to taking what they needed to subsist and now they were infringing on the possessions of others and this was unacceptable to the settlers. Neither the various tribes from other areas who were finding their way into Southern Africa nor the Europeans viewed the Bushmen as human beings. As a result, Bushmen were victims of acts of slaughter and inhumane treatment which continued into the early 1900’s (I may be wrong on the dateline) when laws were passed to protect the Bushmen. Only a very few Bushmen still remain in South Africa and I believe I read that less than 100,000 in total still reside in all of Africa. (If my memory serves me correctly, Chris placed the actual number still in South Africa as 250.) In writing this, I recognized that my memory of the details that Chris articulated is severely lacking. Further, even if I could remember verbatim the hours of history that Chris conveyed to us, my patience for composition would be severely compromised. However, if you are interested in reading more about the history of South Africa, you might be interested in this link.
http://www.info.gov.za/aboutsa/history.htm
Our next stop was the Mondazur Boutique Hotel in Port Edward. Traffic was heavy as we navigated the rush hour traffic through Durban and thus, we arrived later than expected. It was dark when we arrived but the hotel, located on a lagoon and golf course was modern, beautiful and bountiful in its amenities of luxury. I was particularly impressed with the “all glass enclosed” bathroom which I found somewhat of an invasion to my privacy. However, after 60+ years of marriage, privacy seems a little less relevant than it might have been 60 years ago and I adapted. According to our brochure, “Port Edward has a delightful beach known by the Europeans as “Tragedy Hill”. The tragedy, in 1831, was the bloodthirsty killing of opposing tribes people by a rampaging band of Zulu warriors.” Needless to say, we did not see the “delightful beach” but Chris did delay our departure the next morning for us to appreciate the beautiful surroundings of our very nice hotel.
We departed Port Edward and traveled through the Wild Coast which seemed somewhat desolate but beautiful in a wild sort of way. En route to our destination, we passed by one of Nelson Mandella’s house in Qunu, the area of his birth. Mid afternoon, we arrived at our destination at Crawford’s Ranch in Cintsa on the Eastern Cape Coast of the Indian Ocean. A wedding party was arriving as we were being welcomed and shown to our rooms. Our room was lovely with a large private porch on which to rest, relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings overlooking the ocean below. Some of our group explored the beach and were treated to a bystanders look at the actual wedding ceremony in progress on the beach. That evening, we relaxed in the lounge. I had complained of a slight headache and Chris treated me to a wonderful neck massage which was wonderful. Later, we enjoyed dinner in a small dining room adjacent to the lounge with entertainment provided from the music and ceremonial celebration of the wedding party below.
During the night, I developed a major problem of gastric intestinal malfunction that curtailed my activities for the next day. Our group was scheduled to meet at 10A for a visit to a Xhosa tribal village. I was unable to go but Ken and the rest of our group went. They returned enthusiastic over the hospitality of the 93 year old local guide, Mama Tofu, who explained the customs and traditions of the Xhosa. Ken was amused by Mama Tofu’s explanation of the help that the tribe had received from the various intruders into the tribe’s lifestyle over the years. She said the German’s taught them how to cultivate, plant and raise food, herbs etc but the English were not so helpful. They were “gentlemen”. Mama Tofu gave the group a tour of the village, introduced them to members of the tribe and accompanied them to the native lunch that had been assembled on their behalf. The comments of all those who were part of this “outing” were positive and appreciative of the hospitality and kindness that was extended to them by their hostess. Throughout our trip we enjoyed an in depth exposure to the culture and lifestyle of the many faces of South Africa that I found rewarding.
While the group was enjoying their “safari” experience I experienced my own “encounter” with the “wild side”. Although somewhat predisposed, I heard a noise on the porch and when I looked up my eyes met those of a cute little monkey gazing in at me through the window. One of the other couples reported leaving some cookies on the porch and when they returned to the table, only the neatly folded paper in which the cookies were wrapped remained.
 |
| DONKEYS APPLYING FOR SCHOOL |
The next morning I was able to travel, though perhaps not ready to “boogie”. We departed our lovely accommodations at Cintsa and traveled to Port Elizabeth via Grahamstown, where we stopped for lunch and a tour of the town. In retrospect, we never felt insecure or unsafe with the exception of Grahamstown, where we were warned that there were pick pockets working the street and to be alert. After lunch we continued our travel along Algoa Bay and into Port Elizabeth, an inviting city of pleasant harbor views. En route, Chris shared with us the colorful history of Port Elizabeth which was founded in the early 1800’s by the Acting Governor of the Cape Colony, who named the town after his late wife, Elizabeth.
My malady had not subsided and I was concerned that I should seek some medical advice. Chris had assured me earlier in the day that a Doctor could be obtained if I felt that I needed one and thus, upon our arrival in Port Elizabeth, I asked Chris to arrange one. I told him we would take a cab to his office or whatever – but Chris assured me that he would come to the hotel. Sure enough, at 6P, there was a knock on our door and Chris introduced a very nice local Doctor to us. We were very impressed with his professionalism as he questioned me, took a thorough medical history, took my blood pressure and gave me a blood sugar test. He gave me medicines to take, provided us with his phone number and e mail address and urged us to call him if there were any complications whatsoever as he wished us a healthy and happy holiday. I could not have received better care or more concern from my personal physician. The next morning I was well on the road to recovery and could once again enjoy the scenery as well as my indoctrination into South African history. We had an unscheduled stop at a beautiful community that I believe may have been either Jefffrys or Aston Bay in the area of Paradise Beach for me to pick up a prescription and the drive through this lovely beach community was a pleasant aside to my malady..
Later that morning, we stopped for a rest stop, short walk and scenic “photo op” at a lovely spot overlooking the Indian Ocean. I relaxed on a wall above the walk, while the group engaged in exercise and photo taking. Back on the Garden Route we traveled through a varied landscape of dense forests, woodlands, lakes and lagoons into our destination, Knysna. As we approached the Port Sauer Bridge there appeared to be some “bungy” activity and we stopped to view the jump from the viewing point which was exciting.
We had lunch at Monkeyland and after lunch, Ken joined the Canadians in a tour of Monkeyland, a multi-specie free-roaming primate sanctuary located in the area of Plettenberg Bay on the Wild Coast Route. A large variety of monkeys, apes and lemurs live in what they term as a free, forested habitat. Located adjacent to Monkeyland, is Birds of Eden, a large free-flight aviary that incorporates an indigenous forest with waterfalls and elevated walkways. The pictures of the birds in residence as well as the many varieties of monkeys are spectacular.
As we approached Knysna, Chris gave us a running commentary on the area, the region’s timber industry and the history relating to the lagoon that also serves as a beautiful bay to an active seaside community. His commentary concluded with a side trip from which we could view the breathtaking and awesome ocean turbulence at the entrance into the beautiful bay (lagoon?) of Knysna. After our photo “op” extravaganza, we continued on to our “digs”, the Graywood Hotel, our destination for the next two nights. According to our brochure, “Knysna is one of the Southern Cape coast’s best known holiday destinations, situated between lush forests and the shores of the peaceful lagoon. The most familiar attraction is The Heads, which are two great sandstone cliffs guarding the mouth of the lagoon, connecting the estuary with the sea. Knysna Lagoon is one of the few places along the coast and in the world that supports an oyster hatchery and the Knysna oysters are reputedly among the tastiest in the world.” (Apparently they were out of season or something because they were not readily available on the menus.)
Apparently the town was founded in 1882 from two hamlets and named after the Knysna River. The town’s founder landed at the Cape in 1796, and he played a significant role in the town's early development. Because of the difficulty in getting ships in and out of the bay, he hired a harbor pilot to assist large vessels maneuver the tricky entrance. One of the better-known pilots was John Benn, originally a shipwright from Mossel Bay, whose name is borne by a double-deck pleasure cruiser currently operating as a tourist attraction on the Knysna lagoon. If I remember correctly, not a single ship was lost under the guidance of the illustrious Mr. Benn. The port was officially closed in 1954 when Lloyds of London and other insurers would no longer insure ships entering the harbor.
As soon as we were settled into our room, Ken was ready to launch an exploration of the marina and I was his captive accomplice. Chris had recommended good restaurants in the area but of course, there was nothing that could compete with the marina and the environment of water activities it offered. Ken’s first love (I have never been misguided) is the ocean and every bay, lagoon, lake or any water affiliated resource available. Thus, I knew that he was in his own world at Knysna and I was nothing but a “come along”. We had a lovely dinner at a bayside restaurant and basked in the environment that I has become my destiny after 60 years.
The next morning we completed our exploration as we joined our fellow travelers on a cruise around the bay aboard the motor vessel John Benn for an up close look at the intimidating entrance to the bay. Although he didn’t say so, I was sure that Ken longed for an opportunity to skipper a boat through that turbulent sea and experience first-hand the ego “building” satisfaction of navigating what looked like a wild and agitated surf into that quiet bay. Thankfully, it was not to be. Afterwards, we enjoyed walking among the local shops, did a little shopping and while I rested, Ken was able to further fulfill his need to experience all that floats in the marina and adjacent area. That evening we joined Chris and the rest of our group for dinner in a local restaurant and too soon, our day was spent, sleep beckoned and another day awaited us.
We departed Knysna early the next morning and traveled the coastal route to Victoria bay, a popular surfing area on the Indian Ocean. We enjoyed watching the surfers as they maneuvered the big waves into the quiet waters of the bay and admired the inviting cabins that seemed inviting for beach loving and surfing fans anywhere. Reluctantly, we accepted Chris’ nudge that time was fleeing and we needed to hit the road. As we pressed on to our next destination over the winding Outeniqua Pass to an ostrich farm in the Outdshoord area, the landscape changed dramatically and we were seeing yet another vista in this beautiful country.
En route, Chris related the story of how the ostrich industry in South Africa was established and the history of its successes and failures. Ostrich production consists of a number of production functions including breeding, hatching, chick-raising, and growing of ostriches to slaughter weight. The breeding process can last for 8 months after which birds have a 4-month rest period. As we drove through the entrance into the ranch, beautiful big ostrich’s watched inquisitively with a look of greater intelligence than I am told they possess. Although they appeared friendly and sociable, we were told not to get close to them as they can be mean.
At the farm, a designated guide gave us a tour of the operation and explained the process they use in the overall business operation which includes the breeding process as well as the marketing elements that accompany it. He advised us that the industry is presently going through a low point because due to a recent outbreak of H5N2 (avian flu) virus, several farms have been forced to close their operations. The ranch we visited had not been affected but measures were being taken to assure maximum safety to the birds and avoid exposure to the virus. It sounded like the cost of raising an ostrich to a “marketable” asset would run into the neighborhood of $1,500 US dollars, which seemed a considerable investment for a farm the size of the one we visited.
The other ladies in our group were treated to a “sit” on an ostrich (I declined because I was afraid I might break the back of an ostrich and I couldn’t afford to buy it if I did). An ostrich race between a man and female ostrich concluded our tour of the ranch. As you might imagine, the male ostrich won. Afterwards, we were guided to a beautiful outside setting where a lovely lunch that included ostrich meat was served. It was tasty and the overall impression in our group seemed favorable.
After lunch and a walk through the gift shop, we departed the ostrich ranch and continued our drive through the pass and byways to our overnight destination, the Turnberry Lodge in Outshoord. Once checked and settled into our room, the group was off to visit and explore the nearby Cango Caves which run parallel to the Swartberg Mountains that we will maneuver en route into Cape Town.
As we were preparing to go to dinner, I discovered that I had lost the five remaining antibiotics that the Dr. had given me in St Elizabeth. I knew for them to do their job, it was important that I take the full prescription. We took the box (which I had) to a pharmacy up the street from our hotel and they said they would give me the medicines if I could provide them proof of the Doctor’s prescription. Luckily, I had the Doctors receipt and note which we provided to the pharmacy and they called the Doctor and received permission to replace the missing antibiotics. Thus, our impression of the outstanding South African hospitality and kindness was reinforced.
Later, Ken and I had a good laugh as we held hands walking up the street when a man came up to us and asked re c p? Neither of us understood what he was saying and he repeated it several times. Finally, it dawned on us “recipe?”. He said, “yes, what is your re c p for such happiness? We laughed and Ken responded, “it has only been 60 years” to which I retorted, “and we pick our fights carefully”. The man laughed and shook our hand.
It was our last day for travel but there was no leniency for wake up calls. Our phone rang at 6 and we were ready to “boogie” onto the highway promptly at 730A. We traveled through the semi-desert and winelands region and marveled at the different terrain as we made our way over the mountain through the towns of Robertson and Worcester before arriving in Cape Town, the ‘MOTHER CITY”. We stopped at a winery along the way for a nice lunch and had a glass of “vino” to toast what had been a wonderful, exciting, fun and educational trip.
We arrived at our hotel, the Holiday Inn Express, checked in and freshened up before meeting Chris in the lobby for a “tour” of Cape Town, a trip to Table Mountain and the final chapter to our lessons in South Africa 101. During our many periods of “learning” and “listening”, Chris referred to the “coloreds”, the “blacks” etc but not as the same. I asked him for clarification to which he explained that in South Africa the term colored refers to a heterogeneous group with mixed ancestry. During the apartheid period the South African Government used the term “colored” to describe one of the four main racial groups which were identified by law as Blacks, Whites, Colored and Indians. Chris expressed an observation that he doubted there were very many whites in South Africa who could say with certainty that they were not colored.
 |
| PAT, KEN, EMILY, PT, MAUREEN, BILL, AURELLE, ROB |
 |
| CHRIS |
After our tour of the city, we returned to the hotel and met for dinner at a nearby restaurant where we toasted our good fortune in the trip we had chosen and in having Chris as our guide and to the relationships, friendships and good times that we had shared. We said goodbye to Chris who would leave early the next morning while we could “sleep in” by his standards and thanked him for the experience of a lifetime. I told Chris that of all the tour guides that we have experienced through the years, none had expressed the passion, dedication or loyalty to their country that he had and that I was impressed and respected him for his conviction. As we said goodbye, I felt that I was saying goodbye to a friend who I would always remember fondly.
The next day Ken and I scurried through the open air markets for a look at the native wares that were available for purchase and then grabbed the “hop on, hop off” bus for a ride to the marina (where else?) for lunch and “look see”. We enjoyed a brief trip around the marina via canal boat, did a “walk through” the shops and returned to our hotel, tired, happy and ready to rest.
The next morning, we joined our group for breakfast, said goodbye to our San Diego friends who were returning home that evening. Ken and I then joined the rest of our group for a full day tour of Cape Point and the Peninsula with a visit by boat to to a seal rookery, a visit to the Cape of Good Hope, lunch at Cape Point, a stop at a penguin rookery and a final stop at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It had been an early rise, a full day and Chris was not there to wave his threatened bull whip.
This was our last night and our Canadian friends invited us to share a “final farewell” dinner with them. We had a lovely evening and once again, toasted what I believe was a very special, enlightening and enjoyable visit to South Africa for all eight of us. Once again, we toasted Chris and wished him well as he entertains, constrains and educates in his continuing quest to “do his part” for his country. He is a national asset, whether South Africa knows it or not.
Ken and Pat Burns from the road and/or the sea
