Hong Kong

HONG KONG WELCOME

OUR DAY IN HONG KONG

Our Captain navigated our entrance into Hong Kong with his usual efficient style as we stood on our balcony and looked ashore at the breathtaking sight before us.  We docked at the cruise ship terminal on Kowloon with our balcony overlooking the terminal (Equivalent to the other side of the tracks). Hong Kong is a sprawling landscape of high rise buildings on what surely must be one of the most unique settings in the world.

We visited Hong Kong 20 years ago and the Hong Kong of yester year is no longer. It was as though we were seeing it for the first time. As we eased into port a forest of high rise buildings greeted us from the shore on either side.  It was an awesome sight and for me, it was certainly one of the most distinctive visuals to my memory bank. The view of Hong Kong from the sea is, in my lowly opinion, spectacular.

We had booked a tour from the ship and at 9AM we walked the approximate one mile to board our waiting bus and the sights of Hong Kong. It was a beautiful sun filled day as well as a holiday and the annual Dragon Boat races were in progress which did not bide well for getting about the city.  Traffic was horrible. Our guide estimated the current population as 9 million which is increasing daily by 150 new imported Chinese. A gentlemen from the US who visits Hong Kong frequently said that the massive importation of immigrants into Hong Kong rivals the US borders for confusion and he suggested that Hong Kong has no idea what the population really is. 

Our guide gave us a review of the current political and economic status and touched on some of the problems associated with Hong Kong’s assimilation into China’s system.

We were driven through the tunnel that connects Kowloon to Hong Kong Island.  We were told that it is really not a tunnel but a tube that was prefabricated and dropped into the harbor in lieu of digging a tunnel. He said the harbor floor is a massive rock that would have been difficult and time consuming. Manufacture and installation of the tube was quicker to accomplish and much more efficient.

Our first stop was at the tram to Victoria Peak where we were shepherded to the front of the line with a minimum wait time and ushered onto the tram for the five minute ride to the top.  The view from Victoria Peak is spectacular and as breathtaking as the view from Table Top Mountain in Cape Town South Africa. 

Our “look see” from Victoria Peak completed, we boarded our bus for the spectacular ride down the hill past the beautiful homes where the very rich reside.  We were told that the English colonists had chosen the Peak for reasons of security and the beautiful views.  Our guide said that the first non-English person to have a home in that very “elitist” area was a man by the name of Ho who was an opium dealer. 

Our next stop was Stanley Market, credited as the “place to shop” for souvenirs and gifts as well as it is an area consecrated by beach seeking tourists who enjoy the beach and its nearby venues.  Our guide cautioned us that the old axiom of bargain shopping is less relevant in today’s Hong Kong than in years past. He suggested that shopping in China is better when it comes to value shopping for souvenirs.  By now the heat had gathered “stream” (humidity) and I am still walking with a boot that complicates my mobility. I decided to skip the heat, walk and crowds which by now were extreme. Ken and Diane took the plunge and returned to congratulate me on my “wise” decision.

Our final stop was, of course, the high point for Ken’s ever present desire to visit the boats and his need to see a town by rail, water or foot. We had a tour of the harbor by sand pan and got up close and personal with the “boat people”. It was very interesting and in addition to the relatively simple and frugal lifestyle exhibited there, the yachts and boats that were docked there provided a stunning insight into the disparity between rich and poor.  The guide had previously pointed out that the rich were getting richer and the middle class poorer and certainly, one could only be in awe of the appearance of great wealth that abounds in Hong Kong.

Sadly, we are back at sea and on our way to Xiamen China where we hope to find the Hong Kong bargains that we missed in Hong Kong. As we count down the remaining shipboard days our reflections are positive in general. Too soon, we will be returning to a lifestyle of normalcy and we will look back fondly on our many good memories.  

 

HONG KONG AFTER DARK

HIGHLIGHTS OF VIET NAM

HO CHI MINH CITY

We looked forward to our visit to Viet Nam with eager anticipation. We elected to take a tour from the ship after conferring with shipboard personnel who cautioned us about the business ethics of the taxi drivers for hire.  We followed the advice of our shipboard staff and our reward was a good day with an informative guide and a great lunch of native fare.

  

Tallest building with helicopter pad on side

Our visit to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) Viet Nam is memorable both from our personal experience as well as the opportunity for us to see the country that has been the source of great discord in our country.  I must confess that my curiosity was somewhat compromised by uncertainty and concern as to how I really felt about the events that had caused such turmoil in my country.

Aboard our comfortable air conditioned bus, our guide gave us a summary of Viet Nam’s history, which included the years of French occupation, the Viet Nam war and subsequent events that have led to the Viet Nam that we were visiting.  I came away just as confused and uncertain whether I believed my country’s involvement in the Viet Nam struggle was right or wrong as when I went in.

Notre Dame Basilica

Our guide told us that people own their land, can own a business (as long as they have a business license) and he seemed to suggest that they are relatively free and independent.  People who work for the government can only have two children but people who do not work for the government can have more. His commentary suggested an upward mobility that I personally did not perceive in practice but perhaps my perspective is from a different view. 

Communism was neither portrayed as a negative in the country’s progress or as a positive influence though the guide made it evident that the country is progressing economically. We were amused to learn that the masks worn by many are to protect the skin and not as a result of what we had assumed was "poor air quality".

Paalace

We visited the History Museum and Reunification Hall (former Presidential Palace) and drove by the Zoo and Botanical Gardens built during the French occupancy.  We stopped for picture taking at the Notre Dame Basilica which was made entirely from materials imported from France and the neo-classical Saigon Central Post Office. We enjoyed a lovely buffet lunch featuring a bountiful selection of mouth-watering Asian foods that were a taste of perfection.

Post Office

We visited a lacquer factory and drove through the busy streets that could reflect the enterprise of a major city anywhere including the high end stores that occupied the shopping malls that abound. We stopped for photos at the market mall and viewed streets lined with the stalls and shops of entrepreneurs trying to “eek” out a living in the tradition of their lifestyle and culture. 

Scooters

As our driver maneuvered our bus through the busy “scooter occupied” streets, one could understand why a 100% tax on the purchase of automobiles is imposed.  If half of those scooters were replaced by cars, the city would experience gridlock.  We were amused by the helmet clad families of as many as four traveling on one small scooter.  Perhaps the Vietnamese family who “scoots” together stays together?

Rice Paddys

As we returned to our ship through a tunnel under the river built by Japan and over newly constructed roads, we saw the rice paddies that are a major source of revenue for the farmers and the country.  I marveled that in spite of the many examples of progress and affluence, the work of farming still depends on a very primitive lifestyle of hard work and diligence.

CAPITALISM

There you have it – our day in summation.  There were many things shared and much information given to us by our guide but that is the stuff of other writings. I am writing a book and this is not it. 

Our next stop is Hong Kong as we near the end of our voyage and realize that we will soon be back home where the heart is. 

Market Mall 

Visit to the Temple

SINGAPORE

AND NOW FOR THE REST OF THE STORY…

After enduring the hassle of ingress and egress from the ship on our arrival  our first day in Singapore, Bill and I left the challenge of the hop on hop off bus to our spouses who double as photographers at large.  We decided to save our energy for viewing their pictures later.   Our second day in Singapore after an early breakfast Ken and Diane rushed off to “catch the day” in digital memory. 

As they enjoyed their ride atop the open bus, they were visited by a rather brisk gathering of storm clouds that reduced their enthusiasm for picture taking as well as open air sightseeing.  They returned to the ship wet and subdued from their exposure to the elements and an air of disappointment cast a veil over their usual enthusiastic demeanor.  Their  feedback was decidedly low key leaving Bill and I to conclude that we were glad we stayed aboard.

And the rain came down

Approximately 4,000 passengers departed the ship in Singapore and another 4,000 happy Asian families replaced them for what I have deemed as a “cruise to nowhere”.  

Native of Port Klang

Port Klang 

Our departure from Singapore was delayed for reasons unknown to us but it did not delay our arrival in Port Klang, Malaysia, the gateway to Kuala Lumpur.  Unfortunately, we did not properly review our tour alternatives in advance and too late we found that Kuala Lumpur would be a “missed” opportunity. 


We enjoyed our day aboard ship and watched the activities in the harbor as we relaxed in the peace and quiet of a ship half empty.  (That's better than a glass half empty.) After another sea day in which the 3 day guests could enjoy the shipboard amenities of their “outing”, we arrived back in Singapore.

We had coordinated a luncheon date with Ken’s cousins, George Martzen and his wife Chin Cheak, and they graciously arranged to meet us in China Town. Chin Cheak ordered a bountiful and delicious variety of Dim Sum to meld the scenery, culture and taste of Singapore with a memorable visit with family that we see too infrequently.  George and Chin Cheak have been missionaries to Singapore for the past 14 years doing the good work of their calling.  Our visit and the good vittles we shared was the “high point” of our visit to Singapore and another “crown”  in our  book of memories.

We are enjoying another sea day and tomorrow we visit Phu My (Ho Chi Minh) Vietnam.  One never knows what may happen when the Burns’ and Herbert’s are out and about.  Stay tuned – we only have another eleven days in what has been termed our “Royal Odyssey”.  My summation at the end of this trip may provide insight into just how “Royal” it was.

Old  Salt

SINGAPORE

SINGAPORE

Our arrival in Singapore lacked the excitement and anticipation that we expected.  Our 3 PM arrival left little daylight for our usual scenic overview of the city and departing tourists further complicated our exit.  It was a long walk from the ship to the terminal and further still, to the waiting taxis.

Bill’s bucket list included a Singapore Sling from Raffles where the drink was created. Further Bill looked forward to sitting at the bar where General McArthur had sat s he, too, enjoyed the exotic and famous drink.  Once outside the terminal we engaged a personable “cabby” who whisked us the short distance to the historic old hotel through busy streets past beautiful high rise buildings and the bustling activity that is Singapore.

Bill (and Ken) like to partake of the cuisine of the culture that we are visiting but time constraints have not permitted our pursuit on most of our shore excursions. To Bill’s inquiry about a good place for us to imbibe in a taste sample of the native fare, the taxi driver told us where he would go.  We arrived at Raffles armed with his recommendations and directed to the 2^nd floor Long Bar where we fulfilled our celebratory indulgence in Singapore Slings and enjoyed peanuts in the shell.  We enjoyed our drinks and the lively atmosphere of fellow tourists similarly enjoying a step back in time and the memories of a bygone era.

Drinks consumed, we were ready to seek out our next exploration a food court consisting of 60 restaurants (stalls?) serving the cuisine of the locale.  It was a fun experience that required a walk past the many choices before settling on our “cuisine” of choice.  We enjoyed sharing the experience with the locals on their “turf”. 

Dinner finished, we flagged a taxi who didn’t seem to know where our terminal was located so we quickly climbed out and found another one who did.  In our younger “life”, Singapore might have offered the nightlife that we enjoyed at that time but old age has sat in and the ship offered the bed and rest that we sought.  Getting old lacks adventure!!

The nest day Bill and I decided to forego the challenge of fighting the crowd of an estimated 3,000 or so passengers who were disembarking the ship and another 3,000 + or – new passenger who were embarking. Diane and Ken, troopers to the end, caught the hop on and hop off bus for a tour of the city and their picture taking effort.  However, they did not bargain for the rain that accompanied their tour and both returned to the ship decidedly wetter than when they left.  As it turned out, our 2^nd day in Singapore was plagued by the worst weather of our trip and reminded us of how fortunate we have been as to the good weather that we have enjoyed throughout this trip.

Today we are in Port Klang, Malaysia which provided for an exploration to Kuala Lumpur.  We decided to forego the crowd and the 3 hour ride and instead, we have stayed aboard and are enjoying the the sights and sounds of Malaysia from aboard ship.   

Have I mention that youth has its rewards in adventures?

A DAY IN PENANG

After another four days at sea, we greeted our arrival in Penang Malaysia (sometimes referred to as “the Pearl of Asia”) with exuberance and anticipation.  We were ready to abandon ship, at least for a few hours, and by 9AM we were on our way ashore.  Our “custodian”, “keeper” “secretary” and “tour guide”, Diane, had done her homework.  A van with driver was supposed to be awaiting us at the terminal to give us a tour of the city, Alas, as sometimes happens, the engaged driver failed to appear but another one stepped up to the plate and we were off.

We were told the population of Penang was 3 million. (This number that does not correspond to the number given in Wikipedia. I assume that the variance involves a discrepancy in area included in the respective counts—but what do I know?)  It makes no never mind because it took no genius to immediately conclude that Penang is a bustling and thriving activity of entrepreneurship. The traffic was aggressive (though not as bad as India) and heavy.

Our first stop and photo op was a Buddhist  Temple where Diane and Ken engaged in their picture taking moment. Our next stop was a Batik enterprise that offered colorful Batik clothes that were difficult to resist but alas, the price provided a good exercise for containment of what might, otherwise have resulted in impulse buying.  Poverty is a wonderful thing for bringing reason to all things involving money.

From the Batik shop we were marshalled into a coffee and tea shop featuring Malaysian produced coffee, tea and by products of the same. Of course, this was our coffee break of sorts inasmuch as free samples of the products were provided in the hope that our taste buds would overrule our otherwise sense of frugality.  Apparently our guide now considered us ready to step up into the big time and our next stop was a pewter operation where I was mightily tempted but successfully resisted.  I did find a chain that I liked and managed to negotiate a price that seemed like a good deal.  By now our guide had apparently concluded that we really were not “shoppers and the sightseeing began.

Our next stop was “Penang Hill” which is accessed by the Penang Hill Railway, a one section funicular railway which climbs the hill from Air Itam near George Town on the island of Penang.  Our driver left us off and one quick overview of the waiting crowd created a light bulb!  If it was that bad to go up, what must it be like to coming down and we were on a schedule. We quickly concluded that this was an adventure we should forego and ran to catch our driver before he parked the car. I am sure the views from atop the hill were fabulous but you, the reader must learn of them from another source. We hate to miss anything but sometimes there is a time for prudence and Penang Hill was ours. Mind you, there were times when we could have exercised more prudence as you may conclude from our next  experience.

Our driver took us to the Kek Lok Si  Temple, a Buddhist Temple also located in Air Itam (I think Air Itam must be a phrase that refers to hills or mountains in the Malaysian vocabulary).  Constructed in 1893, it is one of the best known temples on the island. Our driver drove us to the top of the hill where you enter into the temple and from there you take a funicular railway which takes you back down the hill where the driver would await us.  Bill and I decided to forego the pleasure of another temple and went with the driver to await the arrival of our respective spouses. Unfortunately, the directions left something to be desired.  At the end of the funicular, they were supposed to walk down the steps and through some shops and stalls to where the driver had parked.  His directions were not clear and Ken and Diane expected him to be waiting where the funicular ended which was the half way point. For a time the two were lost, missing and unaccounted for which caused them and their waiting spouses concern.  Finally after an hour of exchanged phone calls, a good rainstorm and patience the driver found them and I quickly discerned that their adventure had not made them two happy campers.  Both are good sports and by the time we were back down the hill they had dried off from the rain and come to terms with their good humor.  Bill and I were quiet during this readjustment period inasmuch as we had been in an air conditioned, dry car enjoying our own adventure, a trip to the utility office for the driver to pay his gas bill or something. Isn’t that what being a tourist is all about?

After our misadventures of the day, our driver drove us through old town, past the High Court and stopped for us to take pictures of the 13 mile long Bridge from the old part of town on the waterfront. 

Penang is pristine with absolutely no graffiti, no trash and even the oldest parts of the city are well maintained and welcoming.  It was an interesting, enlightened and fun day in spite of a few moments of drama.  That’s life.

I am going to publish this and post pictures later.  We are nearing Singapore and I have things to do, places to see and cultures to investigate.

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TASTE OF INDIA

COCHIN, INDIA

After four days at sea we looked forward to a walk on terra firma.  As the Captain brought our ship into port and expertly guided it into dock we were ready and waiting for clearance to explore the life and culture of India.  Clearance granted and with our preapproved visitors permit in hand, Bill, Diane, Ken and I were off the ship. We were soon approached by a taxi driver ready and willing to negotiate a reasonable price to show us the city.  Time and price agreed upon, we were off, in a matter of speaking.

We climbed into a mini suv and our educational process went into high gear starting with the crazy driving habits of the natives. A bit of the English eccentricity is explicit with the steering wheel located on the right side of the car and cars driving on the left – which is the premise.  In fact, cars, trucks, tuk tuks and motorcycles vie for any open space on the road passing each other going and coming with only inches to spare.  Bill suggested that we might be candidates for hood ornaments and I had a better understanding of a comment about Indian drivers made by our driver in Muscat, Oman. We were learning a lesson first hand and it was not how to relax.

We drove through crowded streets bordered on either side with garbage piled in between open stalls occupied by waiting merchants seeking willing buyers for a variety of merchandise. Our driver’s English was lacking in clarity and I wondered whether I might have talked to him during one of my many computer related problem solving calls. We wanted to cross over the bridge into the city proper but our driver said the traffic was too heavy and suggested that was better planned for the next day. We were driven by several points of interest including the Church of St Francis, (built in 1503 by Portuguese friars); Mattancherry Palace Museum, beach, Dutch cemetery, and sights but I was, frankly, too busy holding on, amazed that no one had been killed so far that day. Actually, there were no emergency vehicles, police sirens or downed pedestrians during our entire trip.  In Rome, sirens and emergency vehicles reflected the predominant “sounds of the city”. We drove by an area that our driver described as predominately Jewish.   (Our on board brochure referred to a “bustling Jew Town” but I am not sure it referred to the same area and if it was, I deemed the choice of words “politically incorrect”). 

Further, our shipboard brochure of available tours and excursions offered from the ship urged us to “pack an open mind and patience to better appreciate Cochin’s unique third-world experience”.  That was an understatement and certainly reflected wise and “politically correct” advice.  The streets were not unlike those found in any Mexican or South American village of limited resources and too many people except perhaps, there were more cars and more people. After three hours “out among ‘em” we returned to the ship, had lunch and regrouped. 

Diane had found a “hop on hop off” boat mentioned doing her on line research of available modes of travel.  Ken thought that he could see ferry boats that might offer such a service not too far from our ship. After lunch Ken and Diane scurried out to explore the possibilities for a scenic boat ride through the backwater area. The walk was expected to be lengthy thus, neither Bill nor I were ready to commit to an adventure that sounded as if it could be like pursuing a “pig in a poke”.  Ken had ensnared Diane into his ever present curiosity and desire to “see it all” and by now his need to explore up close and personal the odd fishing nets hanging from weird poles on shore had become an obsession.

Our two explorers sat out with the blessings of their respective and I would suggest saner spouses.  As they exited the main gate they were approached by a “tuk tuk” driver who offered to take them the roughly two miles to the station where Ken had seen the ferry boats. It turned out that they were regular ferries that transported the locals to and from specific locales and not the Backwater tour they were seeking.  The tuk tuk driver offered to take them to an independent establishment that offered a boat ride through the backwater area for a firsthand view of the lifestyle and gainful pursuits along the canal shores. Such a deal and off they went. When they arrived and saw what was offered they were excited and decided to wait until the next day so that Bill and I could share the adventure. They made reservations for the four of us the next day, returned to the ship to share with Bill and I their plans for our next adventure.  

The next morning Bill decided to forego the early morning departure, tuk tuk experience and boat ride so Diane, Ken and I struck out just as raindrops began to fall.  After a brief wait for the rain to let up we met our drivers and climbed into our tuk tuk for the trip across town. The traffic was even more exciting and daunting from the little tuk tuk than it was from the back seat of the suv. Our ride took us by fish nets, fish farms and through a tropical jungle to a private road leading into what appeared to be a private home on a canal where a boat awaited our boarding.

As soon as we were aboard, we pushed off and slowly glided down the waterway past small cottages, fishing nets and a glimpse into the lifestyle and culture of the backwaters of Alappuzha.  Our narrator was the owner of the property and it sounded like the property had been owned by his family for several years. He had taught school in South Africa for twenty years and returned to India where we were told he now owns several enterprises and, according to our guide, is a wealthy business man.  He seemed very politically aware and conversant with the issues confronting his sphere of personal interest as well as the problems affecting India in general and the ecology of the water which is a stable in the lifestyle of the area.

The fishing nets that had absorbed Ken’s interest are believed to be from the court of Kublai Khan, founder of Chinas Yuan Dynasty.  Ken wanted to see the fishing nets used but they are used only for night fishing.  As a result we were subjected to his theory on how the nets worked which may or may not have a relationship to the actual process.  He believes that the big arms hold the outer ends of the net so that when they drop the net down it sinks to the bottom.  A light is dropped down close to the surface of the water and attracts the fish. When the net contains enough fish, the arms are brought back up and because of the unique design of the net the fish slide off into the tub or bucket below. 

After our one hour boat ride we returned to shore for a lovely and delicious  lunch prepared by the proprietor’s wife which consisted of chicken, prawns, fish, rice and curry sauce topped off with a beautiful slice of fresh sweet pineapple.  We had experienced the sights, sounds and food of India and our two day introduction into the lifestyle and culture of India was complete.  We did not see the tourist version and we visited no museums. We met real life people – our taxi and tuk tuk drivers and people just trying to make a living.  We had peered into the real world of poverty, bare existence and the pursuit of commercial enterprise and I was left longing for a more in depth exploration though I doubt that the opportunity will ever arise.  Would I recommend it to everyone? No. But for those with a curiosity, interest and sense of adventure it may offer a new enlightenment.

According to the WWW (World Wide Web) “Kochi (Cochin) also known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea, was an important spice trading center on the West coast of India from the 14^th century. Occupied by the Portuguese Empire in 1503, Kochi was the first of the European colonies in colonial India. It remained the main seat of Portuguese India until 1530 when Goa was chosen instead. The city was later occupied by the Dutch and the British. Cochin has been ranked the sixth best tourist destination in India according to the Nielsen Company who conducted a survey on behalf of the Outlook Traveller Magazine.  According to a study done by McKinsey Global Institute, Cochin was one of 28 Indian cities among 440 global cities that will contribute 50% of the world’s GDP by the year 2025.”  

On a personal note, Cochin does not have the Taj Mahal and thus, I concluded that their “hype” was a bit over “the top”.  Nevertheless, I would like to see more of the countryside and know the people better. However, I am not ready to migrate!

A goodbye from the citizens