Our original plans called for another 300 mile day of travel to Watson Lake but we decided to take it a little easier and enjoy the beauty of the Canadian Rockies. It would be difficult to identify any scenery that has not been beautiful, but the Canadian Rockies certainly rate right up there for spectacular scenery. As we climbed the peaks and viewed the valleys below, the breathtaking beauty was almost too much for the eye to behold. It is all so perfect in its beauty except there is a haze that hangs over the mountains which we understand is as a result of forest fires. We were told that no attempt is made to fight forest fires caused by lightening because they are too remote and the cost of fighting them too expensive. As we drove further along the Alaskan Highway we saw a good sized fire which seemed to be gaining strength. In the meantime, we are feeling right at home with Los Angeles air quality though the haze does not “smog” make, but it is enough to remind us of home.
We spent Sunday night at Liard Hot Springs where Ken enjoyed the hot springs. His brief stint in the pools left him relaxed and ready for bed. The Hot Springs are a quaint and lovely spot where lush tropical plants grow surrounded by tall pines and birch. It is difficult to imagine people enjoying the hot springs with several feet of snow all around but the hot springs will beckon “snow or no”. There was a fee to stay in the park but use of the Hot Springs is free.
Our days got longer as we entered Alberta and as we move further North, our days gain daylight until by our “early to bed and late to rise” standards, we are neither sure what time the sun sets or when it rises. Ken said that the sun was shining when he awakened one morning at 4AM, an observation I can neither confirm nor deny. Indeed, our days will continue to gain daylight hours until we reach Anchorage and though we have had no trouble adjusting to daylight sleeping, we miss the sunsets, an evening pleasantry that we have had to forego.
We have enjoyed pleasant shirt sleeve weather, open windows for fresh air and comfortable sleeping with only a sheet until the wee hours of the morning when, occasionally, a blanket is required. As a matter of fact, the weather is downright hot.
Monday, June 21 - Our overnight stop at Watson Lake was relaxing with a walk in the signpost forest which is a forest of signs left by visitors from all over the world. Over 50,000 signs have been erected in the “forest” since the tradition was started by a U.S. army soldier working on the construction of the Alaskan Highway in 1942. Both primitive hastily constructed signs as well as professional signs, brought specifically for posting in the “forest”, embellish each of he sea of poles on which 8 -10 signs are erected.
After our walk through the “forest” we visited the Northern Lights Centre and attended the featured presentation on the Aurora Borealis. It was an interesting presentation of lights but somewhat disappointing. If one has experienced the beauty of an Aurora Borealis, I don’t believe that a man made light presentation could ever adequately recapture that experience. It is a sensation of viewing a majestic “painting” in process. I remember experiencing this phenomena on two occasions, and I shall never forget the awe of my first experience. For an eight year old it was a surreal experience that seemed to underscore the greatness of the unknown and the wonders of the universe.
Tuesday, we continued our journey leaving Watson Lake mid morning and stopped for a travel break and 10 minute to Rancheria Falls for a combination of exercise and sightseeing experience. Continuing on, we crossed over the Continental Divide yet another time and over the Nisutlin Bay Bridge at Teslin which is, according to our Milepost Guide, the longest water span on the Alaskan Highway. Just across the bridge, we stopped and visited the George Johnston Museum which provided a very interesting and informative background on the native lifestyle of this area. It chronicled Mr. Johnston’s personal ambitions and success in pursuing his personal version of entrepreneurship. Johnson, a Tlingit Indian was a man of many “trades” (trapping, businessman, photographer ) who was able to capture the lifestyle and culture of his people through his photography. He was an amazing self educated man of unique accomplishments and independence.
The many rivers and lakes were beginning to lure Ken to fishing. A quick stop and inquiry regarding purchase of a fishing license proved discouraging. The man at the store recommended against obtaining an out of State license because the rivers and lakes are to high and the fish are not biting. Thus, a day of fishing was put off to another time.
Road signs as well as advertisements in the Milepost Director promoted the benefits of a stop at Mukluk Annies Salmon Bake. A boat ride and free camping was available if one chose to “dine” there. Our curiosity overcame us and we decided to give it a whirl. Dinner was very good. Simple mountain grub served family style with a wonderful fresh salad bar and though not a “gourmet experience” it was an adventure into the culture of our surroundings and a pleasant experience. After dinner, I did our laundry while Ken did some “coach chores” and we topped off our evening with a ride across the lake on a boat captained by Mukluk Chuck, Annie’s husband. Chuck and Annie visited Alaska on their honeymoon, thirty seven years ago. They returned home to Minnesota and set into motion their planned relocation. They decided on the Yukon because of its less populated area and they have been in the Yukon Territory 31 years. They have eight children, all of whom live within 100 miles. In addition to the real estate that they own, they have built a restaurant and RV park on the lake which is open less than three months of the year. They are an interesting, hard working and innovative couple whose business practices seem to reflect their professed religious faith. They seemed to put their customers’ interests and needs above their own financial gain and it appears to work for them. They deserve their success and if you are ever in this area, we highly recommend a stop over at Mukluk Annies. Here, as well as throughout our trip, we found the mosquitoes a distraction and, in spite of Ken’s many attempts at home spun mosquito abatement, they have proven to be challenging as well as pesky.
Wednesday we drove the 100+ miles into Whitehorse the capital of the Yukon Territory located on the Yukon River. It is a city of some 22,000+ people (the Yukon has a total population of just over 30,000). It is a thriving little town with spectacular scenery, interesting history and “traveler friendly”. The City issues a one time three day parking permit to visitors who apply and wherever you go, people are helpful, pleasant and friendly. Upon arriving we were uncertain whether we would go on into Skagway or spend a few days in Whitehorse. We decided to park in Wal Mart’s parking lot which is a courtesy provided to their customers. We have found the parking lot option to be s a handy convenience for an overnight stop when we are traveling through a city en route to another destination. We return the favor by doing as much of our shopping as we can at Wal Mart as do many other RV travelers. After doing an overview of things we wanted to do and see while here, we decided to stay over a few days and moved into a RV Park where we are nestled in among the trees in a private secluded spot. A selling point for this particular RV Park was wireless inter-net but so far, I have been unable to get my system to work. Nevertheless, it is an ideal place to spend a few days of “down time” to relax and recharge.
Today, Thursday, we took a boat trip down (or was it up?) the Yukon River for a brief trip back in time to learn something of the history of White Horse and the contributions of the Yukon River to the development and taming of this wonderful area of the world. It is hard to imagine the large stern wheelers navigating the rapids of this mighty river as they brought people and supplies to the gold fields of the Klondike in 1898. According to our river guide, as many as 22 such boats navigated the treacherous waters during the heyday of the great gold rush. We closed our day with a presentation of the “Folies” at the local theater which was interesting, entertaining and well attended. With a day off to do our “chores” relax and rest, we will travel to Skagway on Saturday, the 26th of June.
We are experience record heat for this area (it has been into the 90's since we left Alberta) with no end in sight until next week according to news reports. We expect it to be more comfortable in Skagway . We met a couple from Huntington Beach who has decided to stop in Skagway on the way home. The man jokingly said he wants to get to Alaska before all of the glaciers melt. We have met several interesting people. One lady, from Walnut Creek, California, is traveling alone to Fairbanks, where she will be joined by her husband who does not like to travel by car.
Until next we meet with the written word according to Pat, our enthusiasm for the wide open spaces continues and the beauty of this land is redundant in its magnificence. We do miss our family and wish that they could enjoy this adventure with us. Take care.
