SATURDAY AUGUST 20. SORRY THAT I WAS UNABLE TO POST THIS LAST WEEK. I RAN INTO PROBLEMS WITH E MAIL ACCESS.

WEEK ENDING AUGUST 14, 2004

Saturday, Aug 7, we stopped over night at the Junction of the Alaskan Highway and Highway 37. To Ken’s inquiry regarding Highway 37 (our proposed route to Stewart/Hyder), he was advised that there were 40 miles of gravel or dirt road. We understood that it was a secondary road, but Ken assured me that the view was worth it. “Iffy” roads notwithstanding, we pressed on as if we had good sense. There was a Jade Mine along the way which, of course, we visited for a walk through the gift shop as well as Ken wanted to check out the authenticity of the mining operation. It passed. My confidence improved as to the safety of the road when we recognized that the caravan of 37 vehicles that had overnighted with us at the RV Park were also traveling our road South.

We arrived at a campground maintained by the local Lions Club in the Dease Lake area around 3PM. There were 16 spots and only two sites occupied. We decided to spend the night there and parked next to a lively creek where we could look out at the water rushing by. The soothing sound of the water made good background music for a restful night.

Monday morning Ken was up at 5AM. He has been “harping” on our not seeing wild animals thus, an early departure in the hope that we will catch some early feeding animals. My enthusiasm was not at a “high level”. Nevertheless, it is hard to sleep in when there is someone banging around preparing to move ones house down the road. We were on the road by 6, bad “attitude” and all. Traffic was very light, with only an occasional vehicle interrupted our scenic bliss. An early morning mist hung over the valleys and lakes as we made our way along the curving steep canyon roads. Just as I was about to remark that it didn’t appear an early start made any difference in “animal sightings” we went around a 30 degree corner and there just venturing onto the highway was a big black bear. Of course, I fumbled with the camera and before I could even get it on, the bear had escaped back into the bush. About 50 miles further down the road, a bear cub crossed the road in front of us just as we came within sight of it. Again, no picture. It was too fast. However, Ken was ecstatic. He had been vindicated. Although it was 10 AM, we were in the right place at the right time, a justification for “his nibbs”.

Although we suffered through several stretches of bad roads on Sunday, Monday was a nightmare in bad roads. Extensive road construction was underway. The washboard gravel road and many deep ruts combined to make navigation “testy”. However once through the construction area, we were greeted by a brand new road, taking the edge off our displeasure with the previous three hours of ruts, dirt and gravel . When the road work on Highway 37 is finished from Highway 16 to the Alaskan Highway, it will be a highly desirable route. It is an incredibly beautiful drive. There are lots of fish camps, lakes and rivers along the way, a true wilderness paradise for the outdoors person or one who enjoys the beauty of nature. We turned off Highway 37 onto 37A for the 50 mile side trip into Stewart and its neighboring Alaskan town of Hyder, located on the Portland Canal, 70 miles from the inside passage of the Gulf of Alaska. As we entered the canyon floor, we passed Bear Glacier, just off the highway on the outskirts of Stewart. Small icebergs floated in the glacier fed lake along the road, providing yet another incredible view of the glacier beauty that we have seen on this trip.

We were successful in getting accommodations in the RV campground located downtown Stewart. As we hooked up our coach to the utilities, the caravan crowd from Saturday’s overnight began arriving. Once connected, we were out for a drive to the bear viewing platform and boardwalk in Hyder Alaska. The platform has been built to protect the people from the bears and vice versa as the bears feed on the salmon at this large spawning area. As we walked the distance of the boardwalk, we could see the salmon dying and carcases of those already dead. It was very sad and for me, very unpleasant both in smell and sight. I have been well indoctrinated in the spanning habits of the salmon. I understand that this process is the culmination of the salmons earthly endeavor and that they have been pre-programmed to achieve this last act but still, it is a depressing sight. It was 300P and no bears were out at that time of the day. Nevertheless, people stood on the platform with cameras ready in the event that one might be prone to “an afternoon snack”. The Ranger told us the best viewing time was 6-10AM and 6-10PM.

Enlightened, we drove on to visit the Salmon Glacier, 20 miles beyond and six miles beyond that a second Glacier. The road up to Salmon Glacier was as bad as that which we had traveled earlier in the day, except this time we did not have to endure the rough and tumble road in a RV. We passed several mines en route to the Glacier, all of which were of interest to Ken. Once at the Salmon Glacier, Ken pushed on to the second Glacier in spite of my objections and a notice that the road beyond was not a maintained road. If the previous road was maintained, I could not imagine what one that was not maintained could be like. Of course, that did not stop Ken. We made our way carefully over the road, following others who were just as misguided in their search for adventure. The road was a remnant from mining operations of yesteryear and on the hillsides, buildings and old machinery lay in various phases of deterioration. As we approached the second glacier we were shocked to see a RV camped on a nearby overlook with a phenomenal view of the glacier and the glacier floor below. Ken thought perhaps the owner of the vehicle couldn’t get his nerve up for a return trip. It would not be a trip that I would choose to make in a RV (or even in a car again).

We turned around and made our way back up the hill and were surprised as a long furry animal crossed the road in front of us and made its way up the mountainside. Ken stopped the car, grabbed the camera and the animal stopped and stood while Ken snapped pictures of it before it ran up the hill. We did not recognize the animal but when we returned to the fish viewing area, a ranger identified it as a “whoring marmac”, a furry rodent type animal. We were delighted that our picture of the animal came out as that was the last pictures from that camera. When we tried to access the picture to show the ranger, the camera gave us a “disk error” and we have been unable to use it since. Fortunately, the pictures that were had already saved to disk were okay and we were able to transfer them to the computer.

Ken was up early Tuesday morning in hopes of getting a picture of a bear from the bear viewing platform but alas, it was not to be. Tuesday evening, he went again for another try and watched as a grisly made its way up the river, picked up a dead salmon carried it to the creek bank smelled it and returned to the river. The bear caught a fresh salmon by laying on it, picked it up, took a bite and dropped it and the fish swam off. We were told that the bear picks up the salmon, shakes it to confirm that it is a female and then takes a bite out of it for the eggs. Apparently, it is the salmon eggs that the bear wants and not the salmon itself, according to this source.

Stewart and Hyder are both small “towns” on a 75 mile fjord. Stewart is relatively up to date though certainly not a modern city. We stayed in Stewart. Our campsite was next to a creek providing us a lovely woodlands setting amid advisory signs warning of bears. We had both a lunch and dinner at two different restaurants and the food was very good. As we traveled through the many areas that are dependent on the very short tourist season for their economic livelihood, we were inclined to patronize these businesses out of a sense of appreciation for their “pioneering” courage.

Hyder is a ghost town from the gold mining era and it has had its “heyday”. It’s residents appear to be “leftovers” from the 60's with limited ambition or enterprise. Hyder has a reputation for its night life, or being Hyderized. We did not engage in this “night sport” but we understood that it is a drink that is highly potent and one is enough to achieve “Hyderized status”. Hyder, like the dying salmon was depressing and one trip through the town was enough. The glaciers, bear watching and beautiful canyon setting were spectacular but, as a destination, not a high priority.

Wednesday, we left our site behind the caravan and as we made our way up the highway encountered a baby moose just off the road that I thought was surely going to sprint out in front of us. Fortunately, it chose to go the other way and we picked up speed. A few miles up the hill, a grisly and her cub sauntered up the hillside as two bikers watched their progress and waved at us with a gleeful smile. Our day was a success, it was a moose and two bear day. Whatever amenities may have been missing from our visit to Stewart and Hyder, we received a dividend in animal sightings and enjoyed the natural beauty of the area.

The trip to Prince Rupert was pleasant and without incident. Prince Rupert is a beautiful seaport town. We were amused at what, to us, seemed a “laid back” casual attitude by the business people. No one seemeds to worry about the elements of commerce and a “manna” attitude seemed to prevail. Business hours announced a 10AM opening, and doors remained closed at 1015. A return trip at 1130, found the doors open and the help helpful, friendly and relaxed.

Friday, at the suggestion of an “old codger” that Ken met, we embarked upon a back country trip up the mountain from whence it was promised that we would be able to view the islands and be treated to an outstanding overview of Prince Rupert and the surrounding area of islands. Ken is a sucker for any adventure or exploration that might take him to new sights. This sounded like a must do. The mountain road was barely passable and never ending with each curve in the road holding promise of a top of the hill spectacular only to proceed yet further up the mountain. We could glimpse the beautiful sight below through the trees, but, my patience with narrow roads, rocks, chuck holes and dirt run its limit. I was concerned about the abuse we were doing to our car as well as my adventurous spirit had run its course. Ken under duress turned the car around and we made our way down the hill with silence speaking louder than words.

After our disaster on the mountain, we stopped by the North Pacific Cannery Museum where we were given a guided tour through the old cannery which was opened in 1889 and closed in the early 60's. The North Pacific Cannery is one of many canneries once located in this area. It has been retained as a museum and contains the cannery operation (complete with machinery), homes that were provided for the families, quarters for the single workers, general store and cookhouse where meals were provided. The many canneries that once operated from Sacramento to Canada are now few but, like the mines of that era, museums and authentic historical sites like this provide a rare insight into the colorful and glorious history of the pioneer spirit and enterprise of our forebearers. As a final treat, we were entertained by a folklore presentation and Indian dance depicting the importance of the salmon to the native ancestral culture and lifestyle. It was an interesting and enlightening afternoon.

Saturday, the 14th, we will take the ferry to Ketchikan and spend two nights there, catching the ferry back to Prince Rupert Tuesday morning. Once again, we are at a locale where I cannot take the time to post pictures but when we again get to a good I-net facility, I will post pictures.

Until next week when we will be back in the US, have a good week and stay well. Congratulations to our beautiful granddaughter who has embarked upon her college career at SMU. We are exceedingly proud of her and wish her much success and happiness as she pursues her career development.

Until next time...................