For those of you who may be interested, this is an overview of our Baltic cruise aboard the Norwegian Jewel. As the dawning of old age becomes more relevant to our travels, this trip was “sans” my “trusty computer”. Perhaps by the time we next "take to the road", I will invest in one of those little notebooks from which I can still maintain my favorite hobby of conveying my thoughts live and unabashed without the added burden of weight that my present laptop carries. On the theory that it is better to be late than never, I hope you enjoy my summation of our trip events and the delights encountered in our respective “Ports of Call”.
Monday, June 1 (at 730PM) Ken and I boarded American Airlines Flight 136 for London’s Heathrow Airport. We arrived Heathrow Tuesday, June 2 at 215PM. We boarded the hoppa airport shuttle to the Comfort Hotel, an American Airlines affiliated hotel near Heathrow. It was an older Hotel without the amenities that are important to some travelers but it was clean, quiet and sufficed adequately for an overnight rest.
Wednesday, June 3, we boarded the Hoppa shuttle back to Heathrow where we were met by a Norwegian Cruise Line representative who directed us to our bus for transport from the airport to our ship at the Port of Dover, an approximate 2 hour drive. The trip to Dover was comfortable, pleasant and the lovely green pastures with grazing cattle provided this country girl with fond memories of my youth on a farm in the rolling hills of Southern Indiana. Ken was more impressed with the stately manors that could be seen from the road. Once at the ship, we were registered and directed to our cabins and invited to make our way to the buffet for our first meal aboard. Food is a high priority on a cruise ship – so once aboard, it was time to get started. Our ship departed Dover on schedule and we were on our way to explore the Baltic capitals with St Petersburg, Russia an expected highlight of our trip.
As our Captain eased the 965 foot Jewel from the pier and slowly steamed away from port, we slipped past the White Cliffs of Dover to a musical rendition of that beautiful song of the same title by one of the bands aboard ship.
As we steamed past the beautiful cliffs, I was reminded of the battle of Britain which was fought in this very location during World War II. The realities of history and the memories of the many battles that have been fought for us to have the freedom to enjoy our lifestyle and culture is a sobering reminder of how precious our life in the United States truly is. For me, this historical truth provided a brief reminder of the battles that have been fought to insure our freedoms and, even now, as the world confronts an economic crises and recession that endangers those very freedoms. The beautiful scenery and poignant backdrop of our heroic and courageous past seemed important to this journey into history on which we were embarked. For those of you who would like to read more about Dover and its ancillary accommodations and sights, a brief summary of the area can be found at http://www.destination360.com/europe/uk/dover.
Thursday, June 4 was a day at sea which for me was a bit lucky inasmuch as the North Sea leading us into the Baltic sea was a bit rougher than I prefer and I had not yet acclimated myself to my “sea faring” travels. It was a day of “subdued” adjustment for me.
Friday, June 5, as we steamed into the calm harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark we were greeted by the statuesque windmills of eco awareness that are fast becoming the cornerstones that herald the modern day commitment for energy survival. As these tall statutes that provide renewable energy to the citizens of Copenhagen turned above us en route to our port, I was reminded of the recent rhubarb between California’s Governor Schwarzenegger and Senator Diane Feinstein over the possible location of windmills in the high desert of California. I recognize that the objections expressed by the Senator are reflective of the outcry that has been launched by her constituents. While I respect their right to that expression (and the Senator’s need to confront it) I was reminded of how short sighted the Senator’s position is. It is painfully apparent that if we are to maintain our lifestyle and continue to enjoy the comforts that require energy, we cannot deny the need to compromise our preconceived aesthetic preferences. In order for us to generate the basic supply of those comforts, there is no choice but to embrace the less than beautiful windmills in the interest of providing an affordable and renewable source of energy. I thus concluded that those who fight this windmill syndrome of progress need to travel beyond their cocoon of isolation and think beyond their own ego centric preferences. Copenhagen’s view has not been compromised.
Once the ship had been tied up to the dock and clearance for the guests to go ashore had been granted by the local officials, the approximate 2,000 guests disembarked the ship for their respective tours and sight seeing plans for the day. Ken and I elected to do our trip ashore as an independent venture and we boarded the local “hop on and hop off” bus for a tour of the city. The bus provided us with “on board” earphones that provided us with an English translated guide and suggestions for explorations within the route of the bus.
Our bus tour took us past Amalienborg Castle. It is a real royal castle although it doesn't have towers and spires. The Queen lives here during the winter season. This is where the balcony scenes are featured whenever the royal family seizes the occasion to greet the people. Even though the castle is primarily the residence of the royal couple, visitors can experience some of the royal chambers that are not in daily use by indulging themselves in a tour of the castle, which we did not. The flag was flying above the castle which we were told indicated that a member of the royal family was in residence. Our tour took us past the “Statens Museum for Kunst” (The National Gallery) but our time was too short for a museum tour (and I don’t like museums anyway) so we were satisfied with a look see from the top of our “hop on hop off. Our tour took us by Stroget – the pedestrian street of Copenhagen and of course to the old canals which are one of the biggest tourist attractions. We drove by Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen’s “Disneyland” and enjoyed the overall aesthetic beauty of Denmark’s orderly and clean capital city. Ken wanted to take a harbor and canal ride on one of the hop on and hop off boats. Alas, by the time we had completed our tour and got back to the canal where the boat rides were offered, it started to rain and our enthusiasm for an open boat ride was defused as fast as one can deflate a balloon. In spite of feeling a bit cheated on what had promised to be a beautiful, good weather day, we boarded our “hop on, hop off” bus and made our way back to the ship, intrigued with the beauty of Copenhagen and enthusiastic over this first stop of our 12 day cruise. For more information regarding Copenhagen and insight into its tourist rich amenities:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copenhagen.
Saturday, June 6 our ship docked in Warnemunde, Germany. We took the ships privately escorted 2 ½ hour train excursion from Warnemunde to Berlin. The countryside was awesome as we passed through the beautiful rolling hills and viewed from our comfortable accommodations the dense forests that adorned the manicured farmland along our route. One could not help but think of how difficult it must have been for the brave men and women of World War II to maneuver through those forests and villages in defense of a world challenged by a misguided tyrant whose ambition was to instill his vision and misguided will upon a world caught unaware by their innocence. We were amazed at the miles and miles of countryside that showed care and cultivation but little activity as to actual human presence. We were told that these farms were former cooperatives formed during the East German regime and after the reunification; these people chose to continue to operate the farms as a cooperative. There were villages along the routes where presumably, the farmers made their homes and maintained a lifestyle within the village complex.
Once in Berlin, we were transferred to a bus for a three-hour coach tour, which included
Major highlights such as the East Side Gallery, the longest still-standing piece of the Berlin Wall, the Tiergarten Park with the Victory Column, as well as the Gendarmenmarkt Square. Further stops included Checkpoint Charlie, the American border crossing during the time of division, the Reichstag, the seat of the unified German government, and the Brandenburg Gate, the true symbol of the city. We were then left off at The Kurfurstendamm for independent exploration. After a short stint of shopping, we found a place to sit and people watch. Our desire for independent exploration was outweighed by our inability to find the motivation for enthusiastic activity, a frequent complaint of elderly persons in travel. Our day in Berlin culminated with a hefty rainstorm that accompanied us back to Warnemunde and provided an ample excuse to nap and recuperate from an active and enjoyable day in Germany. Further information on exploring Berlin can be found at http://www.statistik-berlin.de/berl/berl8.htm.
Sunday, June 7 was another day at sea and after our 12 ½ hour day in Germany, it was welcomed.
Monday, June 8, we arrived at Tallinn, Estonia, a former Russian satellite which regained its independence in 1991. Candidly I must “fess up” that my memories tend to underscore the discomfort of maneuvering the uneven winding cobblestone streets that adorn the enchanting but physically challenging hills. The city truly is a tribute to the crafted beauty and architectural vision of an exceedingly talented era. That said, we enjoyed our journey through the cobblestone streets and wondered at the orthodox Alexander Nevesky Cathedral which dominates the city from its elevated hilltop setting. We admired the 14th century Church of the Holly Ghost and the 13th century Gothic-style Dome Cathedral church which houses over 100 different medieval coats of arms. We viewed the exterior of the castle, now the seat of Estonia’s parliament. Built on a cliff, the Upper Town provided a superb vantage point from which to view the red-gabled roofs and spires of the lower Town. Our day out and about included a quick walk through the many tables of local goods offered for sale. It was a beautiful walk through history and a rare glimpse into the beauty that remains from an era of great talents.
Three years in a row, Tallinn was chosen as one of the world’s seven most intelligent communities from among 400 candidates. As we were later to learn, Stockholm was chosen as the most intelligent community this year because of its good role model for how technology can contribute to economic and social development. Amazing what other countries can achieve when good well intended people like we Americans are willing to work hard and finance the good works of others. (meow). In spite of my catty comments, the city of Tallinn was indeed a beautiful place to visit and its hospitality was exceedingly gracious. Further enlightenment may be found at http://www.tallinn.world-guides.com/.
Tuesday June 9 and Wednesday June 10 brought us to the highlight of out trip, St. Petersburg, Russia. Admonishments about long lines, excessive walking and agility awareness were sobering as we considered what tours to take. After consideration we decided on the Imperial St Petersburg tour which included Peterhof, the town of palaces, fountains and parks which was built by Peter the Great to rival Versailles. It lies on the southern shore of the Gulf of Finland, 22 miles west of St. Petersburg. The Grand Palace, built in the beginning of the 18th century is known as the most brilliant of all the summer residences of the Russian Tsars. The estate construction spanned two centuries and upon its completion, it encompassed seven parks and more than 20 smaller palaces and pavilions. The layout of the 300 acre park and spectacular fountains was designed by peter himself. The Grand Cascade often considered the chief delight of the grounds, consists of three waterfalls, an average of 64 fountains and 37 gilded statues. Samson, the main attraction of Peterhof, is located at the base of the Great Cascade. During world War II, the estate was occupied and all the buildings and fountains were completely demolished. For many years, the palace and the Grand Cascade were under extensive restoration. Now all guests of the city can enjoy the spectacular view of the fountains and the palace. After our tour of the Grand Palace, we toured the magnificent gardens of the Low Park in a pouring rain where through rain drops falling on our head we admired the numerous fountains and statues of the Grand Cascade. As part of our tour, we had a special hydrofoil boat transfer from Peterhof back to the city center, which encompassed a short 30-minute ride across the Gulf of Finland. The ride was one that Ken would normally have enjoyed to the maximum but alas on this day, the rain and clouds prohibited anything more than grateful thanks that the boat was enclosed. After arriving back in town, we were taken to the Spit of Vasilievsky Island where we could have otherwise enjoyed views of the city but alas, our views were severely diminished on this day. We did get a view of the Hermitage Museum and after our Russian lunch toured Saints Peter and Paul Fortress and Cathedral where marble columns, glittering chandeliers and painted décor, combined with carved and gilded iconostasis create a magnificent setting for the tombs of Russian nobility therein. In July 1998, the remains of the last Russian Tsar Nicholas II and his family were brought to the cathedral and are now “en residence” there. The tour continued along the Neva embankment and a brief stop was made for shopping Russian trinkets. It was a full and tiring day but one that will forever be forged in our memories. Many of our fellow travelers topped their day off with A Night of Russian Ballet. We did not and upon our arrival back at the ship we did not stop to eat, ask questions or await a turn down of our bed. We advised our cabin steward that we would forego his attention for the evening and collapsed in a state of exhaustion.
In acknowledgment of the precautionary admonishments about long lines, difficult stairs, difficult terrain etc, we decided to pass up a visit to the Hermitage. It is said that if one was to give proper appreciation to the wonderful works of art that are contained therein, it would take several years. With only one day, we knew we could not hope to achieve much in the way of outstanding viewership and we understood that this tour was especially difficult and exhausting. We elected instead to take the 4 hour tour of Catherine’s Estate in Tsar’s Village which included a 50-minute drive to Tsarskoye Selo (Pushkin), through Moscow Prospect, then on the Kiev Highway to the Egyptian Gates, the entrance to Tsarskoye Selo (Tsar’s Village in Russian). Catherine’s favorite palace is without a doubt one of the masterpieces of world art. (Not that I am an art connoisseur – but I did read that.) Peter the Great presented this estate to his wife Catherine in 1710, and on it a small palace was built by the architect Braunstein. From this time until the time of the last Russian Tsar, it was used as the summer residence of the Royal Family. In 1756, it was expanded in the Baroque style. During World War II, the palace suffered severe damage, but since then has been restored and stands now in its original glory. The palace contains a series of magnificent rooms, including the famous Picture Gallery and, of course, the Great Hall and the famous Amber Room. The parks of the estate add to the splendor of the palace, and several are embellished with a number of charming pavilions. Among them are the Grotto Pavilion, the Hermitage and the Chinese Pagoda. The town of Pushkin is known not only for its remarkable palace and parks, but for the man it was named after. Since 1937, it has been named after Alexander Pushkin, the most celebrated poet in the country.
Tidbits that our guide shared with us included a confirmation that 40% of the Russian population is addicted to alcohol; people are depressed and lack motivation because although they are now a capitalistic society, it is hindered in its vision by 70 years of communism. People are afraid to invest and believe in a future for their country based on capitalism because they fear the return of nationalism which would strip them of any progress they might make. Our guide seemed to suggest that the revolution had changed the lifestyle of the Russian people very little. She emphasized that the Russian people are committed to their orthodox religious beliefs which she indicated is the cornerstone to their lifestyle. She said that during communism, the churches were closed but the devout remained true to their religious convictions. When religion was once again permitted, the faithful were ready. Our guide did express a great appreciation for the education that she received under communism. She was able to gain a good education and college degree, all paid for by the State. She went on to express concern for her two children’s education because education is no longer free. She doubts that she will be able to afford to provide her children with the education that she was privy to. According to her, the average pay is $300.00 per month and people find ways to make money through the black market and other areas outside the “system”.
Our guide to Catherine’s Palace the next day was less candid and more statistical and controlled in her expressions of life in Russia. She seemed to adhere more to the “political correctness” of her presentation and, in my view, she seemed less aware of the political realties. Our guide from the day before seemed to grasp or at least have an opinion about the political realities under which she lives.
Our visit to St Petersburg was all that I expected and I must confess that I loved the beautiful architecture, the size and the aesthetics of the buildings that stand majestically and enthralling in their beauty, design and awesome splendor. I think I could have been a commendable Tsarina! http://goeasteurope.about.com/od/russia/p/stpeteprofile.htm.
http://www.saint-petersburg.com/sightseeing/
Thursday June 11 Helsinki, Finland. Feeling somewhat “economically challenged” by the European prices, we “opted” for a short three hour tour of Heskinki sometimes referred to as the ‘White City of the North.’ Our tour took us along the coastal road, past Embassy Park and the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral with its brilliant gold onion domes. We passed Senate Square and saw important buildings attributed to the Neo-Classic architect Carl Ludwig Engel, including the famous Lutheran Cathedral. We passed by the open-air market on our way to the Olympic Stadium where the 1952 Olympic Games were held. Then it’s on to Sibelius Park to photograph the monument of over 600 steel pipes which honor the great Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. En route back to our ship, we passed by the Opera House and the Temppeliaukio Rock Church, a unique house of worship blasted into solid rock and topped by a copper dome. Unfortunately, the crowds were such that we were unable to get a picture of the Church or even really a good view.
In retrospect, we may have short changed ourselves by our rather quick and dirty tour of Helsinki. Many fellow tourists expressed their appreciation for Helsinki and many cited it as their favorite stop of the cruise. In our haste for a quick overall view of the city, perhaps we did not show it the respect that it deserved. It was a charming city but we may have failed to catch the real Helsinki. Alas, we may have blown it!! http://worldfacts.us/Finland-Helsinki.htm
Friday, June 12, Stockholm, Sweden. In the years that we have been traveling, an often asked question is “what or where was your favorite destination?” I think for this trip, Ken would definitely respond Stockholm. It was a truly captivating city, built on a lake and surrounded by buildings of impeccable design and allure, Ken was truly fascinated by the boats that beckoned his sea faring instincts. For our stop over in Stockholm we elected to take the land and sea tour. Our tour started with a boat cruise along Stockholm’s waterways. According to Stockholm’s very own “hype”, nature and city planning combined have made Stockholm one of the most attractive capitals of the world. Naturally water plays an important part in city life since no fewer than 40 bridges of every shape and size link Stockholm's 14 islands together. We were able to admire many of these as we viewed the city from our boat. As one views the beautiful buildings that border the lake and cannels one cannot help but wonder what people do to make a living in this obviously “upscale” lifestyle. I asked the tour guide and was informed that their primary resource is exportation of intellect. Our boat tour ended at the dock by the Vasa Museum where we got off for an inside visit. In the Vasa Museum, we saw the Swedish warship Vasa, once considered the pride of Sweden's navy. The present museum is built around the restored 17th century warship which sank in Stockholm's inner harbor on her maiden voyage in 1628. Its salvage in 1961, with more than 12,000 objects on board, is one of the most important events in marine archeology. After our visit to the museum, we continued our tour by coach to Old Town. In Old Town we had a walking tour of Stockholm’s oldest and coziest quarters. We were able to view the historic elegance of the exterior of the dominating Royal Palace, and strolled through the narrow, twisting alleys and cobblestone streets in the rain. Any enthusiasm for shopping that we may have had in “another life” was quickly dissipated by the rainstorm that greeted us in Old Town. We ended up finding a restaurant and sampling a rather unique and extraordinary luncheon in a local restaurant with Stockholm merchants the losers. Our tour was billed as an opportunity to experience the medieval intimacy of what is today a living historical monument. On this day – the monument was well washed and we were drenched. Any intimacy we might have otherwise felt with our Stockholm experience was washed away!!!! We were sorry that the rain continued for our return trip through the archipelago and hampered our view of that beautiful series of approximately 24,000 islands which serves as a favorite getaway for vacationers and holiday seekers alike.
http://www.geographia.com/sweden/stockholm.html
Stockholm was our last port of call. The next two days were sea days. All in all the trip was a good experience, the food was much better than the food aboard our Carnival cruise around South America. Overall we would give the cruise line good marks. We were happy with the experience and the accommodations.
June 15, we disembarked in Dover, boarded our bus to Heathrow and returned to the Comfort Hotel for our last night in London. Tuesday, June 16, we departed Heathrow for Los Angeles where we were met by our dutiful son who transported us home to a welcome by the cat and Terri upon her return from work. We didn’t have a single instance of “ships crud” or cold and for that, we are grateful
There you have it.
If you have a desire to bore yourself with more pictures, you may access our photo album at
http://picasaweb.google.com/ppinnb/BALTICCAPITALS?feat=directlink;
Ken and Pat Burns from the road and/or the sea
