Tuesday Oct 20 was a blustery overcast day but we were not deterred. In spite of a light rain, forecast to get heavier, we ventured out and about. There is so much to see and do and so little time in which to do I time must not be wasted. We know that we are unlikely to come this way again so each place we visit is special for the here and now.
Ken decided that this was a proper day to drive in the opposite direction so off toward Liverpool we headed. Liverpool is about 50 miles East of where we are staying. Our destination was an area across the bay from Liverpool where Ken visited a historical presentation on German U boats from World War II while I stayed behind in the car and read.
We also were at the marina where a ferry crossed the bay to Liverpool which I suspect was no coincidence because Ken seemed to have just a hint of curiosity about the "city across the bay". However, the chop was significant and the wind cold so I ignored his comments suggesting that "Liverpool is just across the bay". Mark one down for me!! (I don't win many, you know.)
We stopped for lunch at a local pub and enjoyed a good relaxing lunch as we watched the rain pick up in intensity, for our drive home. We were lucky, the roads were good and the drive was smooth until the GPS took us on a road that surely is "unchartered" by US standards. However, we followed the "Gypsy's instructions" (our GPS) down a paved road large enough for only one car (a cow path by every definition known to a US traveler). Nevertheless, the Gypsy had it right and we arrived safe and sound at our lodging, none the worse for wear. What was most surprising was the amount of traffic that appeared on that "cowpath". Everyone honored the right of way of others, and everything works here – though sometimes the system does seem a bit archaic. Mind you, I am not complaining, just reporting.
Wednesday October 21 was a beautiful clear day and Ken had OUR day planned. Our destination was an area in the mountains in and around Snowdonia National Park for our "train ride" of the week. It has become traditional for us to do a train ride and/or a boat ride at least once during each week of our travels. This was our train ride day. We drove (I want to say up the Coast but Ken says I never get my directions right) suffice to say along the Coast to Conwy Bay where we turned toward the mountains and passed through beautiful scenic valleys of lush green pastures and beautiful farms. The countryside in Wales is indeed awesome in its beauty. The pastoral beauty of the landscape is, for me, the culmination of what I seek in travel. Though I had no idea of what we would see, do or learn in this area of the United Kingdom , we have generally been delighted with the beauty and tranquility of the countryside. The history of the area is interesting and the simple lifestyle that dates back to the days of a more "royal" lifestyle is formidable. Neither Ken nor I have a Welsh background, but that does not deter us from appreciating what surely appears to be a strong work ethic, a hearty soul and an apparent adventuresome lifestyle.
After a bit of a stray from the road to accommodate my early morning "toilet" breaks, we arrived in Caernarfon where we would board a steam engine powered train staffed by local volunteers of the Welsh Highland Railway for an unforgettable journey through the spectracular Rheidol Valley . Starting in the walled town of Caernarfon , we followed the Coast as far as Dinas where we turned inland and traveled through the wooded valley of the River Gwyfai and the village of Waunfawr . From spectacular views of the upper Gwyfai Valley , we approached the Llyn Gwellyn Lake and the surrounding beauty of an idyllic pastoral setting that suggested "heaven on earth:". With a brief stop in Rhyd Ddu we continued on to Beddglert and finally to Hafod y Llyn where we concluded our 20 mile scenic trip. The trip back gave us ample opportunity to enjoy the views that we had been so busy photographing on the way up. Ken advised me to be sure and spell all of the locations correctly and I responded. "Who is to know?" Mind you – I tried to be true to their spelling and if the words make no sense – please blame it on the Welsh.
The trip took us 4 hours and once back at the station, we had lunch and began the drive back to our lodge. Our evenings have been a bit dull by travel standards of the "hale and hearty" inasmuch as we return to our cabin after a full day out and about, expecting to relax, watch some television and have a quiet evening. We receive three stations on our "in house" TV and on Wednesday night, two of the stations carried the same rugby game! Of course, we know nothing about rugby so Ken played games on the computer, I read and overall, the evening was less than raucous. I am beginning to appreciate the part that the local "pub" plays in the British lifestyle. It is their social life and in spite of Ken, I am beginning to feel a real need to "bond" with a pint now and then. We'll see how well I adjust to the Irish lifestyle next week.
On Thursday October 22 , another exhilarating day of car travel and scenic wonders were planned by my ever "adventuresome" husband and soul mate. Early morning "taps" heralded "rise and shine: with a hurry up and go tune". In the car, the Gypsy was programmed and we were "on the road again". Today was a long boat ride – not long as in distance but long as in a long skinny boat. The skys were overcast but that, of course, does not discourage "he who has a plan". As we drove through new valleys on unfamiliar roads, I was once again mesmerized by the sheer beauty of this countryside. I also was less than impressed as I looked down from the road into the valleys below in sheer fear of the narrow roads and sheer drop offs on which we traveled. However, Ken, always mindful of my fears – real and imagined -- reassured me in his pragmatic way by reminding me that he was riding in the car also and if I went over the side, so would he. That didn't impress me a whole lot, mind you.
We had our usual early morning search for a public toilet to accommodate my needs. I vowed that if I lived in this area, I would personally apply to the House of Commons (or whatever jurisdictional agency applies) for a right to locate "Andy Gump" toilets at all of the rest stop. There are frequent rice stops but NO toilet facilities. If President Obama was President of the UK , I am sure he would appoint a Toilet Czar. I might even support him on that appointment. There is a dire need for such conveniences, in my first hand and honest opinion.
Finally after a two hour ride through what I have already described as the awesome beauty of the Wales countryside, we climbed through a mountain pass and came upon the good sized beautiful town of Llangollen . It, too, has a scenic train trip, but it isn't running on this day. This is good – two in one week is a bit much for even me. While investigating the train station, I ran into two nice local gentlemen volunteers who enlightened me with a brief history of the town and pointed out the flags to the recently named World Heritage Site of Pontcyllte Aqueduct. This is where we would board the long boats for our canal trip. Ken had walked on ahead and thus, missed my conversation with the two gentlemen. It was good for my ego to be able to provide a symbolic gesture of guidance to my very special "tour director" en residence.
In the old days, the town of Llangollen was a stop over point for carriages, royalty and otherwise, en route to Holyhead with a final destination of Ireland . The town contains many old and large hotels, with beautiful old homes adorning the mountainside. A charming locale in what to me, seemed like the middle of "No Where. Chatting with the townspeople is in itself an adventure that provides only a clear understanding of about every fifth word. Whatever falls in between every fifth word, I leave up to my "vivid" imagination. Both Ken and I shake our head as if we understand but unknown to our fellow conversationalists, both of us are asking ourselfes, "what are they saying?" Once alone each of us share our fifth word and fill in what we believe to be credible missing words which, in our unappreciative opinion, makes about as much sense as the Welch language itself;
While we waited for our 12 noon canal trip, Ken enjoyed the charming canal locale and gleefully photographed the long boats as they maneuvered the canal. Families (some of which "live aboard" their boat) navigate through the canal, waving and smiling as they enjoy an outing that my husband would love to share. Unfortunately, our attention was diverted and we missed the departure of the horse drawn long boat and thus, a lost "photo op" that we both regret. We had forgotten to wish Ken's brother, Don, a happy birthday this day but we did think of him as we boarded the boat for our canal ride. He plans a trip to England next summer, perhaps we will present him with a belated birthday card containing the admission for a long boat trip on some scenic canal during his visit to Jolly Old. We'll see.
Ken met and visited with a charming, warm and outgoing couple from London and South Wales . They seemed to take pity on us as "older" and decidedly "eager" senior citizens and they shared the canal ride with us and added flavor to our experience. We enjoyed their company and was sorry to part company with them as we each went our separate ways on the conclusion of our trip. Hopefully, we will stay in touch via e mail for shared adventures and perspectives in our respective "conquest of travel".
"The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (Welsh pronunciation: [ˌpɔntkəˈsəɬtɛ], full name in Welsh: Traphont Ddŵr Pontcysyllte) is a navigable aqueduct that carries the Llangollen Canal over the valley of the River Dee, between the villages of Trevor and Froncysyllte, in Wrexham in north east Wales. Completed in 1805, it is the longest and highest aqueduct in Britain, a Grade I Listed Building[1] and a World Heritage Site." For more information on this World Heritage Site, go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontcysyllte_AqueductThe aqueducts were built to provide water to areas where insufficient water was available to sustain the livelihood of the area. They are a charming and interesting part of the many formidable sights and sounds of the old world.
Friday will be a day devoted to laundry, packing and preparation for our next phase which will be our travel by Ferry to Ireland and the insight of yet another lifestyle and culture.
Ken and Pat Burns from the road and/or the sea
just as happy as can be