events in the life of an ''oldie but goodie''.
Copyright 2018 Patricia Burns
All Rights Reserved
Tuesday, December 17, 2013
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
OUR MEDITERREAN CRUISE
After two wonderful weeks on the Rhine, Main and Danube Rivers, we left the Viking Aegir at 345 AM April 6, for our 615 departure from Budapest for Amsterdam with a connecting flight to Rome at 945 AM. With only 45 minutes between planes in Amsterdam, we were beginning to develop an uneasiness when our plane was 45 minutes late leaving Budapest but alas, we made our connections though many did not make their connection for other destinations.
Upon arrival in Rome, we were met by a Norwegian Jade representative and guided to our bus for the 1 hour trip from Rome to Civitavecchia. Lunch was served aboard ship while our bags were delivered to our room. After lunch, we unpacked, gathered for the usual “lifeboat drill” and after two weeks of cold temperatures on the river, settled down to enjoy warmer friendlier skies
Ken stopped to take pictures and as we prepared to resume our walk, a taxi driver approached us and asked if we would like a tour of the city. After discussion (his English was severely lacking) we decided, why not? We enjoy seeing as much of the countryside as we can. I am not a big “museum” person. I like to “feel” a locale. So, we climbed into the taxi and were off to “feel” the city.
We drove through the city, up a mountainside to an overlook for outstanding views and stopped for photographs. Our return took us through the countryside and back into the city center and through a residential area. We were puzzled (and a “bit” nervous) when the driver stopped the car in front of a residence, honked his horn and waved to a lady in the window above us.
She beckoned him in and he invited us to accompany him. A little uneasy, we followed him Inside where he introduced us to his wife, son and mother. The son spoke some English which helped in our attempted communications. Our guide’s wife served us a large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice from the orange tree outback accompanied by fresh baked cookies, The home was clean and comfortable, its modern furnishings reflected a US middle income lifestyle and exuded welcome warmth and genuine hospitality. As we left, I purchased a beautiful hand made scarf from the Grandmother as a reminder of our brief but delightful peek into a lifestyle that seemed to reflect the simple goals of family, health and happiness shared by people world wide. Our visit to our guide’s home provided a lasting and favorable memory of our visit to Turkey.
Our next port of call was Limassol Cyprus, the second-largest city in Cyprus with a population of 100,000. Considered one of the busiest ports of the Mediterranean transit trade and the largest port in Cyprus, it is also renowned for tourism and extensive cultural traditions. Limassol was built between two ancient cities, Amathus and Kourion and its historical centre is located around its medieval castle and the Old Port
.
at the Dung Gate (the name comes from the early use of this gate to haul refuse out of the old city). We visited the Temple Mount, where Olive trees from the time of Christ still stand, walked through the Garden of Gesthesame and visited the Church of Agony (also known as Church of all Nations).
Ken was favorably impressed with the views and charm of the city and reported that it was
undoubtedly a lovely place to visit or spend a vacation. I enjoyed my afternoon from the balcony of our stateroom and appreciated the quaint beauty of the town which I found better to look at than to see from a “hop on or hop off” bus. Sometimes an idea is a good one and sometimes there is room for improvement.
Back in Naples we drove through the city, amazed at what we had missed in 1993. We looked at each other and said, “where on earth were we?” For sure we were there, because we have toll booth receipts to prove it. Nevertheless, I shall remember Naples as the birthday treat that I never had and 20 years later, experienced what I missed. Ken was enamored with the sail boats in the bay that were practicing for the America’s cup while I enjoyed the beautiful views from atop the hills, the picturesque old buildings in the city and the history that is Naples.
Upon arrival in Rome, we were met by a Norwegian Jade representative and guided to our bus for the 1 hour trip from Rome to Civitavecchia. Lunch was served aboard ship while our bags were delivered to our room. After lunch, we unpacked, gathered for the usual “lifeboat drill” and after two weeks of cold temperatures on the river, settled down to enjoy warmer friendlier skies
ALANYA TURKEY
After two days at sea, Tuesday April 9 we arrived at our first port of call, Alanya Turkey, a beach resort city of approximately 250,000. Tours offered from the ship failed to catch our “fancy” so we decided to explore the city on our own. As we walked down the dock and entered the street the usual “wanna be” guides, taxis and “hawkers” solicited our attention but we ignored them.Ken stopped to take pictures and as we prepared to resume our walk, a taxi driver approached us and asked if we would like a tour of the city. After discussion (his English was severely lacking) we decided, why not? We enjoy seeing as much of the countryside as we can. I am not a big “museum” person. I like to “feel” a locale. So, we climbed into the taxi and were off to “feel” the city.
We drove through the city, up a mountainside to an overlook for outstanding views and stopped for photographs. Our return took us through the countryside and back into the city center and through a residential area. We were puzzled (and a “bit” nervous) when the driver stopped the car in front of a residence, honked his horn and waved to a lady in the window above us.
Our tour concluded with a visit to the harbor, shipyard, city center and Keykubat Beach on the East side of the peninsula. On the West side we visited Damlatas Beach and Ken toured the Cave. From there we drove up the winding road through narrow streets to the Castle for photos overlooking the beautiful Coast line before returning to our ship. I believe that a visit to a city reveals an existence. A visit to someone’s home reveals a lifestyle thus, a museum is history, a city is today and a home is tomorrow.
LIMASSOL CYPRUS WEDNESDAY, APRIL 10
.
This day we chose a ships tour of Limassol highlights which included a drive through scenic citrus plantations to Kourion and a visit to the ruins of this important ancient city-kingdom destroyed by an earthquake in the 4th century AD. Perched on a cliff-top with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and bay, the ruins corroborate that a theater, the House of Eustolios, mosaics, Roman baths, basilica and an Agora once existed there.
After our visit to Kourion, we visited the Kourion Local Museum located in a private home before proceeding to the old town for a guided walk through the city center and the exterior of Limassol Castle where Richard the Lionhearted married Berengaria in 1191. During his exploration and shopping venture, Ken found a stall that intrigued him which I found abhorrent. I will make no further comment.
ISRAEL APRIL 11
Thursday April 11, Ken was excited as our ship navigated into the Port of Haifa. We knew that two days would not be enough time to “feel” the Holy land, thus, we looked upon this visit as “preparing the stage” for a broader future undertaking.
We concluded that the two day Red Sea tour was too ambitious for us. We opted for one day in Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee and for the second, a leisurely tour of Jerusalem. Both were 10 hour days filled with interesting sights, scenery, history and doctrine (some Christian, some Jewish).
Our first days excursion took us through the Jez”rel valley to Nazareth, the childhood home of Jesus; We visited the Church of the Annunciation, built on the site where Mary is “said to have lived”; the Church of St Joseph where it is believed that Joseph’s carpentry workshop stood and drove by Mary’s well, a modern stone structure set in a small garden.
Our tour continued on through the Muslim area
of Nazareth and past Cana, where Jesus performed his first miracle at a wedding by turning water into wine. We then dropped approximately 600 feet to the Jordan Valley where we visited the Mount of the Beatitudes where Jesus gave his sermon on the mount and visited the beautiful gardens overlooking a panorama of the Galilee, the valley and the Golan Heights. From there we continued on to a local kibbutz, where we were served a delicious buffet lunch.
After lunch we continued on for a closer view of the Sea of Galilee where many of our group waded into the sea and savored their brief encounter at this site of Biblical history. From the sea, we proceeded on to Capernaum, St Peter’s village, where Jesus found refuge after leaving Nazareth. There we visited the remains of the 1st century synagogue where Jesus taught and performed miracles and the 5th century synagogue that was built on top of the old one.
We crossed over the River Jordan, where Jesus was baptized and stopped in Yardenit, the official baptismal site. The River Jordan is small but its history is large. Yardenit was our last stop and from there we made our way back into the city via a scenic drive along the sea and the border of Syria only a few miles away. Being there provides a perspective on just how venerable Israel is to its “unfriendly” neighbors. Thus, concluded our first day of our Israel experience.
I think that an experience in Israel varies by perspective My sense is that our Jewish friends see Israel as fulfillment of their dream for a homeland, the source of their roots, expression of their faith and a tribute to the accomplishments of a special people. It is all of that. However, I think that Christians see it as a holy land once traversed by their savior, sacred with his spiritual presence and the roots of their faith. Thus, I glean two Israeli perspectives. An Israel of Judea and Jewish tradition and an Israel of Christian faith, reverence and faith. The two are compatible and in harmony in spite of their diversity of creed.
LEISURELY JERUSALEM APRIL 11
We departed Haifa at 730AM for our approximate two hour trip through Tel Aviv and into Jerusalem.. Tel Aviv is the second largest city in Israel and the largest metropolitan area. Ken was disappointed to miss the Red Sea, I was disappointed that I did not get to visit Tel Aviv but alas, our two days were full.
At our first rest stop, soldiers were gathering with their military equipment in preparation for an independence day celebration the following Monday (April 15) and the display was impressive.
Jerusalem is the largest city in Israel and the center of power. We drove past the Knesset (Parliament), Shrine of the Books and Supreme Court, en route to our first destination, a panoramic view of the old city and Temple Mount atop the Mount of Olives. After a brief shopping stop, we enjoyed another delicious lunch at a local Kibbutz.
After lunch we continued on to Mar Elias Monastery for a photo op of Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus, in the distance. We stopped at the Sherover Promenade for a spectacular view of the holy city and the great wall before driving around the walls and entering the old city
Our final stop of the day was the Western Wall (Wailing Wall) where we commingled among many gathered at this holy site of prayer and expressions of faith that transcends labels or doctrine. Reverence permeates the air and exudes a peace that the region seeks but seems unable to achieve.
En route back to the ship, our guide provided us with his insight into Israel. 60% of the Israeli population is Orthodox with the men devoting their life to the study of Hebrew and Judaism. They spend their time in study of the Torah and prayer. They do not contribute to either the security (military) or economy (work). He said a wife is chosen by the man and once they are married, she is expected to support the family, maintain the home and have children. Our guide said that an average Orthodox family is expected to have 17 children. He further stated that the family receives approximately $1,100 per month as a living allowance which is inadequate to meet the barest of minimum standards.
Our guide said that his wife’s family is Orthodox and he seemed well versed in both the Orthodox and more progressive views as well as knowledgeable in Christian principles and faith. He stated that Israel’s political establishment recognizes the current “system” cannot sustain the growing number of Orthodox dependency. He said that the political establishment seeks to develop a way that the talents and skills of the Orthodox may better assimilate and contribute to society without compromising their personal faith. He acknowledged that the transition will not be an easy one. On the surface, it seemed to me that the goal appears counter to a personal commitment to the religious principles and search for truth, knowledge and God’s will that is the foundation for traditional Orthodox thinking. Compromise does not come easy in this part of the world.
Monday April 14 Iraklion Greece
Sunday April 13 was a day at sea and Monday, April 14 we arrived in Iraklion, the largest city and the administrative capital of the island of Crete, Greece. It is the 4th largest city in Greece with a population of approximately 150.000 people. It is a popular tourist location and receives approximately 15% of the total tourist traffic of Greece. There are daily ferry trips to and from Peiraeus (Athens' port) and many weekly ones to and from other islands and towns in Greece.
The terminal at Heraklion port is within walking distance of the town's center. Once again we decided to do our own thing. As we walked the “gangplank”, the usual taxi’s and “wanna be” guides beckoned negotiation but we resisted. Seeing a “hop on” “hop off” kiosk we decided that would be a good way to see the city and permit us to get off and on as we chose. This type of “do it yourself” tour can be good but our experience in Iraklion left a lot to be desired. The guide’s commentary was uninteresting and lacking in substance.
From the port we proceeded along the Venetian walls that meet at the old port and the fortress that dominates the old harbor of the city. We passed from the Harbor through the town centre, past businesses, the central market, the cathedral and Museum. Snow capped mountains loomed high above as we approached the archaeological site at Knossos where we departed the bus and did a walk about. Ken explored the site while I waited outside and people watched. We did not visit the museum that houses most of the Minoan findings in Crete. Did I already tell you that I am not a museum person?
After our tour and visit to the archaeological site, we returned to our ship for lunch. At this point, my personal evaluation of this stop was rather low but after lunch, Ken did a walk along the harbor to the Fortress and the town center. He came back and reported that the city center was dynamic and lively with cafes, stores and restaurants dominated by the fountain of the Lion. He was surprised with the number of young people and families in the plaza after our morning tour through empty streets and businesses. It was Sunday, and perhaps, a day for late starts?
Ken was favorably impressed with the views and charm of the city and reported that it was
undoubtedly a lovely place to visit or spend a vacation. I enjoyed my afternoon from the balcony of our stateroom and appreciated the quaint beauty of the town which I found better to look at than to see from a “hop on or hop off” bus. Sometimes an idea is a good one and sometimes there is room for improvement.
TUESDAY, APRIL 16 NAPLES ITALY
April 15 was a sea day and on Tuesday, April 16 we arrived in Naples, our last port of call. Naples, Napoli in Italian, is the third most-populated city in Italy and the biggest city in Southern Italy. After an aborted visit to Naples in 1993. We were anxious to see what we had missed. We selected a Sorrento on your own and Naples with Pizza excursion which included a panoramic drive along the coast from Naples to the quaint hilltop city of Sorrento.
The views were spectacular and the winding narrow roads, an adventure to remember. We visited a shop where wood carving has survived in a single family effort and admired the beautiful workmanship on display. Ken is enchanted with good wood working skills and I often sense that he could barter me for a beautiful piece of carved wood.
After our brief interlude into “wood”, we enjoyed a walk through the streets of Sorrento, stopped for a drink and relaxed in the peace and tranquility of Italy’s hospitality. After our brief fling about town, we joined our tour for pizza at a local restaurant and re boarded our bus for the drive down the hill in awe of the nerves that one needs to maneuver a big bus on those tiny winding roads engineered for buggies eons ago.
About our visit to Naples in 1993. I had chosen Naples to celebrate my 60th birthday. We got up early in the morning and drove from our resort in Roddi Garganico to Naples. After a stressful and chaotic entry into the city with Italian drivers yelling, blowing their horn and flailing their arms at us, we parked someplace near the water.
My sister was traveling with us and by the time we arrived, neither my sister nor I wanted to venture out onto any street, let alone the streets of Napoli. We just wanted to get out of “Dodge”. Ken acquiesced and after 3 passes at the same toll booth where we paid the same fare three times and developed a “I know you” familiarity with the toll operator, we were finally able to get on the right road and escape to Bari.
Our experience in Bari was not much better. After we parked the car and went into a store, a nice sales lady cautioned me to remove my necklace because someone might try to steal it. With that information, we decided to forget the planned birthday dinner and returned to our resort town. There, we found a wonderful hilltop restaurant that prepared the most sumptuous and memorable birthday meal of my then 60 years!! A day of missteps ended in true celebration.
Our ship left Naples during the night and the next morning we awakened in Civitavecchia and prepared to disembark for our trip home.
Our "jaunts" out and about are becoming a little less exciting in our old age. We do not always appreciate the fun that we are having while we are experiencing it. Sometimes we are inclined to ask, "are we having fun yet?" When we get home, view our pictures, compile our memories and share our adventures, we realize it is time to start planning again. Until then, we hope you enjoy sharing our adventures.
AND THAT IS A WRAP
To view and read prior posts go to right screen type in year, select month and double click on title.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
OUR VIKING RIVER CRUISE
THE PLANE? |
Our KLM flight for Amsterdam departed LAX at
240 pm on the 22nd of March and arrived Amsterdam midnight Los
Angeles time (9 am on the 23rd. in Amsterdam). Our flight was uneventful other than it we gained empathy for sardines in a can.
We
claimed our luggage, met our ship’s representative and boarded a bus for the
Viking Aegir. Lunch was served while our
luggage was delivered to our state room and after lunch, unpacking began.
As
Ken opened our one piece of checked luggage, he queried the contents. A quick glance and I frantically declared,
“this is not ours!!!” Ken rushed to the
concierge who promptly ordered a cab and, accompanied by the Assistant Program
Director, Ken was off to the airport.
We
were lucky. Ken Returned the
misappropriated luggage, claimed our own and returned to the ship, 2 hours and
60 euros later. Our afternoon of planned
sightseeing was thus forfeited and our memories of Amsterdam reduced to hastily shot
photos from the bus en route to the port. Our thanks to our new friends from Australia who shared their photographs with us. And so,
our river cruise began.
PARLIAMENT BUILDING AMSTERDAM KINDERDIJK |
Our first scheduled stop was
Kinderdijk, about 15 kilometers East of Rotterdam. Kinderdijk is a system of 19 windmills
situated in a polder (low lying land, once flooded, that has a dike
built around it to reclaim the land).
Built in the mid-18th century and designed to drain the
polder, this historic UNESCO World
Heritage site comprises the largest concentration of old wind mills in the
Netherlands.
RIVER COMMERCE |
LIFE IN THE MILL |
People lived in the mills and
one such mill still remains as it was in days of yore.
The wind was brisk, the air
cold and the wind chill factor formidable. Ken, ever the adventurer, joined the group for the walking tour but soon returned to the ship. He snapped a few
pictures, darted into a store, purchased two wool scarves and, back aboard, declared “it is colder out there than it in Barrow Alaska!” Of course, that was summer.
TRAFFIC WAS BRISK |
After the morning’s adventure,
we sailed toward Cologne with an on board commentary by our Program Director of the many businesses, transportation hubs and points of
interest. Our first day concluded with
a welcome reception and get acquainted dinner.
COLOGNE
GOTHIC CATHEDRAL |
Monday,
March 25, our Program Director led a
guided tour of the old city that included the beautiful Gothic Cathedral, the
largest in northern Europe and UNESCO World Heritage site. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1248
and continued in several stages over seven centuries and was finally completed
in 1880. It largely escaped damage that
ravaged the city and most of Germany during World War II. Two soaring spires symbolize the city and
beautiful stained glass windows further enhance the architectural beauty of
the Cathedral.
The
balance of the day was “at leisure” to explore the city but the extremely cold
weather did not encourage exploration and random adventure as well as many of the
tourist sites were closed.
After
dinner, some of the guests opted for an evening visit to the venerable Cologne
institution, the Brauhaus, a café where the house brew (always a variety of the
famous Kolich beer) is served.
KOBLENZ
& MIDDLE RHINE
MARKSBURG CASTLE |
Tuesday,
March 26 we arrived in Koblenz where passengers going ashore for the Marksburg
Castle tour, a principal site of
UNESCO’s World Heritage Rhine gorge attractions, departed. The brochure warned of steep and narrow walkways
and it was was not recommend for guests with mobility restrictions. Ken and I stayed aboard the ship for the
short sail to Braubach where the group boarded the ship in time for lunch.
The
castle (allegedly the best preserved on the Rhine) overlooks the town of
Braubach. It was well fortified and
thus, never besieged by enemies. It,
therefore,
appears much the same as it did when it was built approximately 700 years ago.
During our afternoon cruise down the Rhine our Program Director, George, pointed out sights and provided commentary about the many little towns, castles and ruins along the way. We passed steep vineyards that produce the famous Rhine wines and the Famous Katz and Maus Castles which stand as a reminder of the power plays that occurred along the Rhine in the middle ages. Land Barons along the river collected tolls from river travelers and were called Robber Barons, an epithet assigned to those who preyed on the river traffic along the Rhine during the 13th century. (Apparently our use of this term was not the first.) As we passed the Lorelei, a legendary rock formation rising 440 feet above the river, George recounted folklore of the fabled Lorelei. It was an interesting, informative and delightful day on the river Rhine. Just after dinner, our ship left the Rhine River and began its journey up the main river, a tributary which flows into the Rhine at Mainz.
appears much the same as it did when it was built approximately 700 years ago.
LORELEI |
MILTENBERG
Once we were docked, a local glass blower came aboard to give us a demonstration of the art of glass blowing. He is the current patriarch in a long established business and family tradition. He demonstrated the process, entertained us with his yarns and smiled happily as many of us rushed to purchase his wares.
After lunch, Ken joined the walking tour of this Bavarian city with its picturesque facades of half-timbered homes and businesses. After a leisurely walking tour of the city, free time for shopping was available before the group was picked up and transported by bus to Wertheim where they were reunited with the ship. The rest of the afternoon was spent viewing the beautiful grape vineyards, villages and castles as we made our way down the river.
WURZBURG
STAIRCASE |
half-day excursion of the impressive Baroque Prince-Bishop’ Residenz’, one of Germany’s largest and most ornate palaces and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The palace was designed by architect Balthasar Neumann and built over a 70 year period beginning in 1720. Both the massive reception staircase and overhead ceiling are considered masterpieces of design. Artist Gimbattista Tiepolo’s “four continents” ceiling fresco (mural) is stunning. Each of the ornate rooms represent a different style. A mirror cabinet reconstructed after massive bombing during World War II is a major highlight.
The castle reflected breathtaking beauty and splendor that reflected a lavish lifestyle very counter to my concept of the “vow of poverty” that I associate with the clergy and challenged my sensibilities. The grandeur and deference bestowed upon the Church leadership during this period reflected enormous wealth and power. Perhaps this explains many of the misdeeds attributed to the Church during this period. The afternoon was at leisure for exploring the town on our own.
Some of our group opted for a scenic motor coach ride to Rothenberg through Franconia and the surrounding area for lunch and sightseeing before touring the palace en route back to the ship. We (or should I say I) opted for a more "sedate" visit.
BAMBERG
Friday, March 29 our morning was spent cruising what is the 106 mile Main-Danube canal, comprising 16 locks raising the water 1,332 feet. Envisioned by Charlemagne in the 8th century, this waterway was finally completed and opened in 1992 thus creating a continuous waterway from the North Sea to the Black Sea. We arrived in Hasfurt after lunch and quickly boarded buses that took us to Bamberg and a tour of its medieval city center which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
A LIL PUBIN' |
After our tour of the city, we joined fellow shipmates at a local pub in Bamberg for a taste of its distinctive smoke flavored beer. We generously tipped our steins to Germany’s beer lords and our fellow passengers until we had exhausted our welcome and the locals seemed to appear “testy” with us, an attitude that offended some of our group who remember World War II..
After our afternoon of “pubbing”, we boarded buses that conveyed us to our waiting ship in Bamberg. (It was too far to walk -- we were sober!
MAIN-DANUBE CANAL & NUREMBERG
Saturday March 30 we visited Nuremberg, a medieval city surrounded by 13th century walls. It is the 2nd largest city in Bavaria and has a history as dark as the beer it produces.
Primarily remembered as the site of post-World War II war trials, Nuremberg is also known for its handicrafts, especially its toys.
Our guide alluded to Nuremberg’s culpability in providing a setting for the rise in power of the Nazi party by its boycott of Jewish businesses and enactment of laws that banned Jewish citizenship during that period. Today, Nuremberg seems to acknowledge its wrongs and seeks to put its misdeeds behind it, but the past can be a heavy weight. (As we should remember in our own political views.)
As our bus drove through the streets, we passed Zeppelin field, the site of Nazi parade grounds where Nazi rallies were staged and visited what was envisioned to be a “great coliseum”, far surpassing that of Rome’s. Conceived as a work in progress, and visualized as a great monument to the accomplishments of the third Reich, construction stopped when war broke out, it now stands abandoned and in disrepair. Its shabby appearance is a fitting monument to the despotism of tyranny.
We did not visit the documentation center but it is claimed that the era of the Nazi propaganda machine is well documented there. The upper level of the center houses an exhibit titled “fascination and terror” dealing with the causes, relationships, and consequences of national socialist tyranny. Regretfully the lessons of history are credible only to those who study it.
We ended our excursion in the old town area and market square where our timing was right for a view of the “Mannleinlaufen” (runing men) clockwork at noon at the church of Our Lady’s. We concluded our morning by visiting the displays of the shops and stands in the square.
REGENSBURG
St Peter's Cathedral |
Easter Sunday, March 31, we arose to snow flurries and a landscape lightly covered with snow.
After lunch, we boarded a bus for a tour of the city acclaimed as one of the best-preserved medieval cities and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Highlight of our stop was the gothic St Peter’s Cathedral with its gleaming spires and stained glass windows where we were able to enjoy a brief exposure to the colorful Easter Sunday service in progress and the music of the renown church choir.
Highlight of our stop was the gothic St Peter’s Cathedral with its gleaming spires and stained glass windows where we were able to enjoy a brief exposure to the colorful Easter Sunday service in progress and the music of the renown church choir.
After our brief visit to the Church, the tour continued on past the old town hall and the 12th century old stone bridge, Germany’s oldest bridge.
During our free time, we were urged to sample Regensburg’s signature dish, sausage with warm mustard sauce at the 800-year-old Alte Wurskuche (old sausage kitchen) Germany’s oldest restaurant. Ken took pictures of the kitchen and restaurant area but we did not
PASSAU
Monday, April 1, we visited Passau, an elegant town called by a German name that means “city on three rivers”) which is situated at the confluence of the Danube, Ilz and Inn rivers.
Our tour took us past the impressive bishop’s residenz, 14th century town hall and the town’s magnificient 17th-century St Stephan’s Cathedral, containing Europe’s largest pipe organ (formerly the world’s largest but the organ located at the Disney pavilion in Los Angeles is said to be larger) (Sorry no picture)..
OVERLOOKING THE CITY |
MELK & KREMS
MELK ABBEY |
RECYCLED COFFIN (IT NEVER CAUGHT ON) |
Tuesday, April 2 after sailing through a beautiful stretch of the Danube called the Strudengau, we docked in Melk and disembarked for an excursion to the dramatic 900 year old baroque Melk abbey, perched on sheer cliffs high above the Danube.
Rebuilt during the 18th century after the original building was destroyed by fire, its library is now home to a wide range of medieval manuscripts. The interior of the Abbey’s church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, with a magnificent carved pulpit and shimmering ceiling frescoes (murals). We also visited the imperial rooms now a museum chronicling the abbey’s history from its inception to modern times.
During the early afternoon, we continued our river passage through historic Wachau Valley, heart of Austria’s wine country, an area designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Mid-afternoon, we docked in Krems where passengers who had opted for a short coach ride to Durnstein, strolled with the Program Director, along cobblestone streets. Above Durnstein, the ruins of Durnstein castle, where Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned during the crusades, could be viewed. Others opted for a wine tour and tasting with Richard Morwald, Viking’s own vintner, who provided them with a guided tour through his cellar and vineyard. To his credit, the wines served generously aboard ship were outstanding and most enjoyable.
VIENNA
Wednesday April 3 we woke up in Vienna to snow covered streets and roof tops white with snow. Talk about deflated expectations!!! – I had looked forward to this destination with great enthusiasm. I did not expect to be welcomed by snow and freezing cold. Thus, I report, cold and chilling what is said to be one of Europe’s most elegant and romantic cities but I must confess even in the snow, it had gret charm.
Ken braved the elements for the bus tour which proceeded along the medieval Ringstrasse (a circular road surrounding the “inner city”) of Vienna lined with its imposing palaces and grand residences. Ken returned to the ship, overwhelmed by the opulence and extravagant luxury suggested by those grand palaces and residences from yesteryear.
In the afternoon, our friends opted for a tour to Maria Theresa’s baroque Schonbrunn palace, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is said that the palace’s opulent rooms and collection of period furniture further bears proof to the lavish lifestyle of the era.
That evening we, along with many guests, attended a classical concert featuring compositions by Mozart and Strauss performed by a Viennese orchestra. The presentation of beautiful music, ballet and opera was most enjoyable and reinforced our expectations for the beauty, tone and spirit that is Vienna.
BRATISLAVA
Thursday, April 4 –After breakfast we boarded a bus for a tour of Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital. Bratislava is set picturesquely at the foot of the little Carpathian Mountains and is dominated by a massive square castle. Our first stop was a photo opportunity just below the castle that provided a spectacular overview of the city. Our tour included the old town, beautiful St Martin’s Cathedral, Michael’s gate with the 15th century tower, the main square, the baroque Jesuit Church, National Theatre and of course, the usual magnificent palaces that provide the charm and splendor that is Europe. After lunch our ship departed for our final destination and last stop, Budapest.
BUDAPEST
We arrived Budapest just after 11 pm, April 4. Our Program Director urged that everyone who felt up to braving the extreme cold, join him on the bridge for a view of the lights of this beautiful city as the ship approached Budapest. Those who did so declared the view breathtaking.
The next morning, we disembarked for a tour of Hungary’s capital. The Danube cuts through the heart of the city and separates the Buda hills and the old city from the elegant boulevards of modern Pest. Our bus tour began in “pest” with a ride along the Andrassy ut (an iconic boulevard in Budapest dating back to 1872 and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site) where we passed the National Opera House, Parliament and Heroes’ Square before crossing the river to the more traditional “buda” side of the city. Tour highlights on the “Buda” side included the massive hilltop castle complex with its turreted fishermen’s bastion and Mathias church and a view of both the famous Chain and Elizabeth bridge, two of many that connect the two halves of the vibrant city. Our bus passed through the Jewish area and the city’s 19th century Moorish-style Dohany Street Synagogue, known as the Great Synagogue, which is the largest Synagogue in Europe and one of the largest in the world. We passed by the Hungarian Jewish World War II Memorial, a scattering of empty shoes along the Danube provided a poignant reminder of the atrocities suffered by the Jewish people during a very sad period in world history.
THOSE ARE WWII BULLET HOLES |
Optional afternoon tours included a visit to the heritage of the legendary Hungarian “cowboys” on the outskirts of Budapest where cowboys herd their sheep and cattle on horseback or alternatively, a tour highlighting Budapest’s colorful Jewish past and present and a walking tour of the Jewish quarter. We stayed aboard ship, packed and prepared for our plane departure. Our wonderful two week voyage concluded with a presentation of Hungarian dance and final goodbyes with shipmates and crew with whom we had spent 14 enjoyable (though cold) days on the Main, Rhine and Danube river.
HUNGARIAN JEWISH WORLD WAR II MEMORIAL |
FINALE
Our last day on the river, Ken photographed the captain’s bridge and the lounge area on the sundeck that would have lured sunbathers and provided great views, weather permitting. Our river adventure took us through 64 locks and under too many bridges to count. Many of the low bridges required the ships bridge to be lowered in order for the ship to pass. During some of our voyage on the Rhine, the upper deck lounge area was closed, the navigation bridge lowered and all furniture removed from the deck as the ship maneuvered under the many low bridges during that part of our voyage. Ships on the rivers are low and long with navigational cameras installed on the bow thus, explaining the term long ships.
Our last day on the river, tours of the captain’s bridge and kitchen were conducted; cooking secrets were demonstrated by the chefs and in general, we gleaned insight into the effort that was put forth to assure our safety, comfort and entertainment. The captain and his staff of 50 did their utmost to assure the satisfaction of their guests. The captain was observed assisting the crew loading supplies and his presence was obvious throughout the voyage. When it came time to settle our bill and acknowledge the good service of the ship’s crew by our tips, there was no question that the entire staff earned and deserved whatever gratuity they received. This was not our first cruise and perhaps, it will not be our last. Assuredly, we have not experienced a more competent, harder working or more pleasant staff than that experienced on this Viking River cruise.
RANDOM SHOTS
CAMPING |
PASSING THROUGH A LOCK |
NEW FRIENDS AND COMPANIONS
MIKE AND RUTH |
MARY AND HILDA |
KEN N PAT |
KAREN |
SARA (SHE REMINDED US OF OUR LAUREN) |
SARA |
KAREN, RUTH AND MIKE |
SARA AND RUTH |
Our special thanks to Karen, Sara, Mike, Ruth, Mary and Hilda. We hope that we will meet again to share these wonderful memories. A special thanks to our children on board, Sara and Karen! They made us feel young!