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| THE PLANE? |
Our KLM flight for Amsterdam departed LAX at
240 pm on the 22nd of March and arrived Amsterdam midnight Los
Angeles time (9 am on the 23rd. in Amsterdam). Our flight was uneventful other than it we gained empathy for sardines in a can.
We
claimed our luggage, met our ship’s representative and boarded a bus for the
Viking Aegir. Lunch was served while our
luggage was delivered to our state room and after lunch, unpacking began. 
As
Ken opened our one piece of checked luggage, he queried the contents. A quick glance and I frantically declared,
“this is not ours!!!” Ken rushed to the
concierge who promptly ordered a cab and, accompanied by the Assistant Program
Director, Ken was off to the airport.
We
were lucky. Ken Returned the
misappropriated luggage, claimed our own and returned to the ship, 2 hours and
60 euros later. Our afternoon of planned
sightseeing was thus forfeited and our memories of Amsterdam reduced to hastily shot
photos from the bus en route to the port. Our thanks to our new friends from Australia who shared their photographs with us. And so,
our river cruise began.
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| PARLIAMENT BUILDING AMSTERDAM KINDERDIJK |
Our first scheduled stop was
Kinderdijk, about 15 kilometers East of Rotterdam. Kinderdijk is a system of 19 windmills
situated in a polder (low lying land, once flooded, that has a dike
built around it to reclaim the land).
Built in the mid-18th century and designed to drain the
polder, this historic UNESCO World
Heritage site comprises the largest concentration of old wind mills in the
Netherlands.
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| RIVER COMMERCE |
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| LIFE IN THE MILL |
People lived in the mills and
one such mill still remains as it was in days of yore.
The wind was brisk, the air
cold and the wind chill factor formidable. Ken, ever the adventurer, joined the group for the walking tour but soon returned to the ship. He snapped a few
pictures, darted into a store, purchased two wool scarves and, back aboard, declared “it is colder out there than it in Barrow Alaska!” Of course, that was summer.
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| TRAFFIC WAS BRISK |
After the morning’s adventure,
we sailed toward Cologne with an on board commentary by our Program Director of the many businesses, transportation hubs and points of
interest. Our first day concluded with
a welcome reception and get acquainted dinner.
COLOGNE
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| GOTHIC CATHEDRAL |
Monday,
March 25, our Program Director led a
guided tour of the old city that included the beautiful Gothic Cathedral, the
largest in northern Europe and UNESCO World Heritage site. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1248
and continued in several stages over seven centuries and was finally completed
in 1880. It largely escaped damage that
ravaged the city and most of Germany during World War II. Two soaring spires symbolize the city and
beautiful stained glass windows further enhance the architectural beauty of
the Cathedral.
The
balance of the day was “at leisure” to explore the city but the extremely cold
weather did not encourage exploration and random adventure as well as many of the
tourist sites were closed.
After
dinner, some of the guests opted for an evening visit to the venerable Cologne
institution, the Brauhaus, a café where the house brew (always a variety of the
famous Kolich beer) is served.
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KOBLENZ
& MIDDLE RHINE
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| MARKSBURG CASTLE |
Tuesday,
March 26 we arrived in Koblenz where passengers going ashore for the Marksburg
Castle tour, a principal site of
UNESCO’s World Heritage Rhine gorge attractions, departed. The brochure warned of steep and narrow walkways
and it was was not recommend for guests with mobility restrictions. Ken and I stayed aboard the ship for the
short sail to Braubach where the group boarded the ship in time for lunch. 
The
castle (allegedly the best preserved on the Rhine) overlooks the town of
Braubach. It was well fortified and
thus, never besieged by enemies. It,
therefore,appears much the same as it did when it was built approximately 700 years ago.
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| LORELEI |
MILTENBERG
We arrived Miltenberg mid-morning Wednesday March 27.
Once we were docked, a local glass blower came aboard to give us a demonstration of the art of glass blowing. He is the current patriarch in a long established business and family tradition. He demonstrated the process, entertained us with his yarns and smiled happily as many of us rushed to purchase his wares.
After lunch, Ken joined the walking tour of this Bavarian city with its picturesque facades of half-timbered homes and businesses. After a leisurely walking tour of the city, free time for shopping was available before the group was picked up and transported by bus to Wertheim where they were reunited with the ship. The rest of the afternoon was spent viewing the beautiful grape vineyards, villages and castles as we made our way down the river.
WURZBURG
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| STAIRCASE |
Thursday, march 28, we boarded buses for a half-day excursion of the impressive Baroque Prince-Bishop’ Residenz’, one of Germany’s largest and most ornate palaces and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The palace was designed by architect Balthasar Neumann and built over a 70 year period beginning in 1720. Both the massive reception staircase and overhead ceiling are considered masterpieces of design. Artist Gimbattista Tiepolo’s “four continents” ceiling fresco (mural) is stunning. Each of the ornate rooms represent a different style. A mirror cabinet reconstructed after massive bombing during World War II is a major highlight.
The castle reflected breathtaking beauty and splendor that reflected a lavish lifestyle very counter to my concept of the “vow of poverty” that I associate with the clergy and challenged my sensibilities. The grandeur and deference bestowed upon the Church leadership during this period reflected enormous wealth and power. Perhaps this explains many of the misdeeds attributed to the Church during this period. The afternoon was at leisure for exploring the town on our own.
Some of our group opted for a scenic motor coach ride to Rothenberg through Franconia and the surrounding area for lunch and sightseeing before touring the palace en route back to the ship. We (or should I say I) opted for a more "sedate" visit.
BAMBERG
Friday, March 29 our morning was spent cruising what is the 106 mile Main-Danube canal, comprising 16 locks raising the water 1,332 feet. Envisioned by Charlemagne in the 8th century, this waterway was finally completed and opened in 1992 thus creating a continuous waterway from the North Sea to the Black Sea. We arrived in Hasfurt after lunch and quickly boarded buses that took us to Bamberg and a tour of its medieval city center which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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| A LIL PUBIN' |
After our tour of the city, we joined fellow shipmates at a local pub in Bamberg for a taste of its distinctive smoke flavored beer. We generously tipped our steins to Germany’s beer lords and our fellow passengers until we had exhausted our welcome and the locals seemed to appear “testy” with us, an attitude that offended some of our group who remember World War II..
After our afternoon of “pubbing”, we boarded buses that conveyed us to our waiting ship in Bamberg. (It was too far to walk -- we were sober!
MAIN-DANUBE CANAL & NUREMBERG
Saturday March 30 we visited Nuremberg, a medieval city surrounded by 13th century walls. It is the 2nd largest city in Bavaria and has a history as dark as the beer it produces.
Primarily remembered as the site of post-World War II war trials, Nuremberg is also known for its handicrafts, especially its toys.
Our guide alluded to Nuremberg’s culpability in providing a setting for the rise in power of the Nazi party by its boycott of Jewish businesses and enactment of laws that banned Jewish citizenship during that period. Today, Nuremberg seems to acknowledge its wrongs and seeks to put its misdeeds behind it, but the past can be a heavy weight. (As we should remember in our own political views.)
As our bus drove through the streets, we passed Zeppelin field, the site of Nazi parade grounds where Nazi rallies were staged and visited what was envisioned to be a “great coliseum”, far surpassing that of Rome’s. Conceived as a work in progress, and visualized as a great monument to the accomplishments of the third Reich, construction stopped when war broke out, it now stands abandoned and in disrepair. Its shabby appearance is a fitting monument to the despotism of tyranny.
We did not visit the documentation center but it is claimed that the era of the Nazi propaganda machine is well documented there. The upper level of the center houses an exhibit titled “fascination and terror” dealing with the causes, relationships, and consequences of national socialist tyranny. Regretfully the lessons of history are credible only to those who study it.
We ended our excursion in the old town area and market square where our timing was right for a view of the “Mannleinlaufen” (runing men) clockwork at noon at the church of Our Lady’s. We concluded our morning by visiting the displays of the shops and stands in the square.
REGENSBURG
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| St Peter's Cathedral |
Easter Sunday, March 31, we arose to snow flurries and a landscape lightly covered with snow.
After lunch, we boarded a bus for a tour of the city acclaimed as one of the best-preserved medieval cities and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Highlight of our stop was the gothic St Peter’s Cathedral with its gleaming spires and stained glass windows where we were able to enjoy a brief exposure to the colorful Easter Sunday service in progress and the music of the renown church choir.
Highlight of our stop was the gothic St Peter’s Cathedral with its gleaming spires and stained glass windows where we were able to enjoy a brief exposure to the colorful Easter Sunday service in progress and the music of the renown church choir.
After our brief visit to the Church, the tour continued on past the old town hall and the 12th century old stone bridge, Germany’s oldest bridge.
During our free time, we were urged to sample Regensburg’s signature dish, sausage with warm mustard sauce at the 800-year-old Alte Wurskuche (old sausage kitchen) Germany’s oldest restaurant. Ken took pictures of the kitchen and restaurant area but we did not
PASSAU
Monday, April 1, we visited Passau, an elegant town called by a German name that means “city on three rivers”) which is situated at the confluence of the Danube, Ilz and Inn rivers.
Our tour took us past the impressive bishop’s residenz, 14th century town hall and the town’s magnificient 17th-century St Stephan’s Cathedral, containing Europe’s largest pipe organ (formerly the world’s largest but the organ located at the Disney pavilion in Los Angeles is said to be larger) (Sorry no picture)..
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| OVERLOOKING THE CITY |
MELK & KREMS
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| MELK ABBEY |
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| RECYCLED COFFIN (IT NEVER CAUGHT ON) |
Tuesday, April 2 after sailing through a beautiful stretch of the Danube called the Strudengau, we docked in Melk and disembarked for an excursion to the dramatic 900 year old baroque Melk abbey, perched on sheer cliffs high above the Danube.
Rebuilt during the 18th century after the original building was destroyed by fire, its library is now home to a wide range of medieval manuscripts. The interior of the Abbey’s church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, with a magnificent carved pulpit and shimmering ceiling frescoes (murals). We also visited the imperial rooms now a museum chronicling the abbey’s history from its inception to modern times.
During the early afternoon, we continued our river passage through historic Wachau Valley, heart of Austria’s wine country, an area designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Mid-afternoon, we docked in Krems where passengers who had opted for a short coach ride to Durnstein, strolled with the Program Director, along cobblestone streets. Above Durnstein, the ruins of Durnstein castle, where Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned during the crusades, could be viewed. Others opted for a wine tour and tasting with Richard Morwald, Viking’s own vintner, who provided them with a guided tour through his cellar and vineyard. To his credit, the wines served generously aboard ship were outstanding and most enjoyable. 
VIENNA
Wednesday April 3 we woke up in Vienna to snow covered streets and roof tops white with snow. Talk about deflated expectations!!! – I had looked forward to this destination with great enthusiasm. I did not expect to be welcomed by snow and freezing cold. Thus, I report, cold and chilling what is said to be one of Europe’s most elegant and romantic cities but I must confess even in the snow, it had gret charm.
Ken braved the elements for the bus tour which proceeded along the medieval Ringstrasse (a circular road surrounding the “inner city”) of Vienna lined with its imposing palaces and grand residences. Ken returned to the ship, overwhelmed by the opulence and extravagant luxury suggested by those grand palaces and residences from yesteryear. 
In the afternoon, our friends opted for a tour to Maria Theresa’s baroque Schonbrunn palace, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is said that the palace’s opulent rooms and collection of period furniture further bears proof to the lavish lifestyle of the era.
That evening we, along with many guests, attended a classical concert featuring compositions by Mozart and Strauss performed by a Viennese orchestra. The presentation of beautiful music, ballet and opera was most enjoyable and reinforced our expectations for the beauty, tone and spirit that is Vienna.
BRATISLAVA
Thursday, April 4 –After breakfast we boarded a bus for a tour of Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital. Bratislava is set picturesquely at the foot of the little Carpathian Mountains and is dominated by a massive square castle. Our first stop was a photo opportunity just below the castle that provided a spectacular overview of the city. Our tour included the old town, beautiful St Martin’s Cathedral, Michael’s gate with the 15th century tower, the main square, the baroque Jesuit Church, National Theatre and of course, the usual magnificent palaces that provide the charm and splendor that is Europe. After lunch our ship departed for our final destination and last stop, Budapest.
BUDAPEST
We arrived Budapest just after 11 pm, April 4. Our Program Director urged that everyone who felt up to braving the extreme cold, join him on the bridge for a view of the lights of this beautiful city as the ship approached Budapest. Those who did so declared the view breathtaking.
The next morning, we disembarked for a tour of Hungary’s capital. The Danube cuts through the heart of the city and separates the Buda hills and the old city from the elegant boulevards of modern Pest. Our bus tour began in “pest” with a ride along the Andrassy ut (an iconic boulevard in Budapest dating back to 1872 and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site) where we passed the National Opera House, Parliament and Heroes’ Square before crossing the river to the more traditional “buda” side of the city. Tour highlights on the “Buda” side included the massive hilltop castle complex with its turreted fishermen’s bastion and Mathias church and a view of both the famous Chain and Elizabeth bridge, two of many that connect the two halves of the vibrant city. Our bus passed through the Jewish area and the city’s 19th century Moorish-style Dohany Street Synagogue, known as the Great Synagogue, which is the largest Synagogue in Europe and one of the largest in the world. We passed by the Hungarian Jewish World War II Memorial, a scattering of empty shoes along the Danube provided a poignant reminder of the atrocities suffered by the Jewish people during a very sad period in world history. |
| THOSE ARE WWII BULLET HOLES |
Optional afternoon tours included a visit to the heritage of the legendary Hungarian “cowboys” on the outskirts of Budapest where cowboys herd their sheep and cattle on horseback or alternatively, a tour highlighting Budapest’s colorful Jewish past and present and a walking tour of the Jewish quarter. We stayed aboard ship, packed and prepared for our plane departure. Our wonderful two week voyage concluded with a presentation of Hungarian dance and final goodbyes with shipmates and crew with whom we had spent 14 enjoyable (though cold) days on the Main, Rhine and Danube river.
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| HUNGARIAN JEWISH WORLD WAR II MEMORIAL |
FINALE
Our last day on the river, Ken photographed the captain’s bridge and the lounge area on the sundeck that would have lured sunbathers and provided great views, weather permitting. Our river adventure took us through 64 locks and under too many bridges to count. Many of the low bridges required the ships bridge to be lowered in order for the ship to pass. During some of our voyage on the Rhine, the upper deck lounge area was closed, the navigation bridge lowered and all furniture removed from the deck as the ship maneuvered under the many low bridges during that part of our voyage. Ships on the rivers are low and long with navigational cameras installed on the bow thus, explaining the term long ships.
Our last day on the river, tours of the captain’s bridge and kitchen were conducted; cooking secrets were demonstrated by the chefs and in general, we gleaned insight into the effort that was put forth to assure our safety, comfort and entertainment. The captain and his staff of 50 did their utmost to assure the satisfaction of their guests. The captain was observed assisting the crew loading supplies and his presence was obvious throughout the voyage. When it came time to settle our bill and acknowledge the good service of the ship’s crew by our tips, there was no question that the entire staff earned and deserved whatever gratuity they received. This was not our first cruise and perhaps, it will not be our last. Assuredly, we have not experienced a more competent, harder working or more pleasant staff than that experienced on this Viking River cruise.
RANDOM SHOTS
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| CAMPING |
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| PASSING THROUGH A LOCK |
NEW FRIENDS AND COMPANIONS
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| MIKE AND RUTH |
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| MARY AND HILDA |
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| KEN N PAT |
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| KAREN |
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| SARA (SHE REMINDED US OF OUR LAUREN) |
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| SARA |
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| KAREN, RUTH AND MIKE |
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| SARA AND RUTH |
Our special thanks to Karen, Sara, Mike, Ruth, Mary and Hilda. We hope that we will meet again to share these wonderful memories. A special thanks to our children on board, Sara and Karen! They made us feel young!
